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walkinwalkoutcattle
True Blue Farmgirl

1675 Posts

Megan
Paint Lick KY
USA
1675 Posts

Posted - Sep 14 2011 :  10:52:42 AM  Show Profile
There are so many hoof problems-it seems like most horse owners deal with them at one point in their lives. My adopted TB REALLY needed a trim when I got him. It was BAD. Anyway, I got him trimmed and his feet looked great for a few weeks. (He's barefoot) he's got a bad case of thrush now and his hooves are chipping. I just know if I put shoes on him he'll just pull them off in the mud. He's on alfalfa grass mix and a scoop of sweet feed every night. What do you all suggest? He's got cracks going up the middle of his hooves, too. I feel bad for him. I'm hoping in a few months his feet will look better-I don't want to have the shoer out too much and over-trim him, though.

Farmgirl #2879 :)
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arabianhorselover
True Blue Farmgirl

422 Posts

Jennifer
Bedias TX
USA
422 Posts

Posted - Sep 14 2011 :  1:52:45 PM  Show Profile
Have you been using any kind of thrush treatment? My husband actually mixed up some bleach water and put it in a squirt bottle and would squirt it on the frogs of the hoofs everyday and it finally went away. As far as the cracks go, how bad are they? They will have chips and some have cracks where others don't. If you have really dry ground and no rain like we have had the cracks will get bad so it you can put some liquid treatment for the hoofs just at the coronary band and it will soak in the hoof. Hope this helps some and good Luck. My farrier comes every 6-8 weeks.

Breeder of Straight Egyptian Arabians and SportHorses
www.whisperwindsarabians.com
Farmgirl Sister #561
Never squat with your spurs on!!!

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oldbittyhen
True Blue Farmgirl

1511 Posts

tina
quartz hill ca
USA
1511 Posts

Posted - Sep 14 2011 :  2:00:20 PM  Show Profile
liquid lysol works great for thrush, and there is many hoof products out there for dry hoofs, but if he is cracking as bad as you say, you might want to have the shoer back out for his/her opinion, cause if he cracks to bad, he could end up crippled...

"Knowlege is knowing that a tomato is a fruit, Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad"
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StrawHouseRanch
True Blue Farmgirl

1044 Posts

Paula
Holt Missouri
USA
1044 Posts

Posted - Sep 14 2011 :  2:24:52 PM  Show Profile
Hi Megan,
I spent a few years doing equine natural hoofcare and rehabilitation and what you describe is not unusual. It just needs a little time...no overnight fix-its. It took awhile for those hooves to get that way and they need a little time to get back to a healthy condition. People like things to get better overnight, like a magic pill, but stick with it and your horse will have some beautiful natural hooves, if you keep him barefoot.

Watch with the alfalfa and the sweet feed. Just like humans, our bodies reflect what we are eating. Their hooves are very good reflections of how they are processing their feed. Just like your fingernails and hair reflect what you eat. You might think about switching your horse off of sweet feed and onto just plain oats. They love both!! Sweet feed does nothing for them but mainline sugar into their system. Alfalfa is pretty rich for a horse that is not working.
Since your horse needed a trim when you first got him, his first trim by your farrier probably won't "last" very long. If at all possible, have your farrier out to do a touch up every four weeks until the hoof has regained its natural shape (as long as you keep him barefoot), and it will also keep those cracks from continuing to run up the hoofwall, just like you would keep your fingernails trimmed up neatly in order to keep them from splitting.
I'll bet he has thrush because his hooves have been overgrown for a long time, and he probably has not had the opportunity to be trimmed to the point where his sole will make passive contact with the ground and keep it cleaned out naturally, so it just harbors junk and stuff. Keep his hooves picked out religiously until he has a nicely trimmed hooves, and then you will not see a problem with thrush.
The hoof is not dead material, and it can absorb whatever you apply to the sole into their bodies. I would not apply any chemical to my horses' skin or hooves that I wouldn't apply to my own.
When I was trimming, the hardest challenge I had was to convince my clients to be patient and let the hooves heal naturally. Given the proper diet and exercise, there is no reason why your new buddy won't have beautiful hooves in a few months.


Paula

Farmgirl Sister #3090
A Beehive is the ultimate Home Sweet Home
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Hosanna
True Blue Farmgirl

466 Posts

Hosanna
Alton Virginia
466 Posts

Posted - Sep 14 2011 :  4:02:45 PM  Show Profile
You know what I found kills thrush dead in it's tracks most of the time? Cattle mastitis antibiotics. It's called "Today" or "Tomorrow" or something like that. It comes in a tube and I just squirt it in there and scrub it around.
I also use Thrush Buster (It's purple). That usually works too.
But I highly doubt the thrush is causing the chips and cracks.
I also let my horse's water troughs run over for a few moments to create a little natural mud around it. Then when they stand there and drink they're getting a little natural moisturizer.
TBs are known for hoof issues. I have five off the track TBs and one in particular has the worst dry and cracked hooves ever. It's just a summer thing. I have my farrier come out more often in summer to trim them up. Good luck!

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gracylfreebush
Farmgirl in Training

39 Posts

Gracy
Alvin TX
USA
39 Posts

Posted - Sep 14 2011 :  5:12:24 PM  Show Profile
Listerine will help with the thrush too. If you have cracks someone suggested a trim every 4 weeks and that is a very good idea. Also, whether you have dry feet or overly wet feet it is good to paint them with pine tare. It is cheap and if the feet are dry it locks in the moisture that the foot/hoof naturally produces. If you environment it too wet it will block the water from getting into the foot. According to the hoof specialist at Texas A&M Veterinary hospital, the hoof only absorbs water through the bottom of the hoof not through the hoof wall. So if you want to keep the moisture out you need to put the pine tare on the bottom of the foot as well and putting it on the hoof wall to protect and keep the natural moisture in. Also, amino acids are the key to a strong hoof. Biotin and Methionine are necessary for your horse to process the proteins in his feed so his body can use it for muscle building and hoof building. Biotin builds the hoof but without the methionine the digestive system will not process the proteins so they can be used to strengthen the hoof in particular. I know that sounds very technical but I have a big old gelding that developed hoof problems when he spent a summer standing in a pond. And until you get the hoof strong shoes can be a real problem and they decrease the blood flow through the hoof.

Thoughts are things choose the good ones.
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gracylfreebush
Farmgirl in Training

39 Posts

Gracy
Alvin TX
USA
39 Posts

Posted - Sep 14 2011 :  5:46:40 PM  Show Profile
Oh, and although the sell biotin for application to the outside of the hoof, according to the Doc at A&M if you use it you are wasting your money, Biotin only works from the inside through the digestive system.



Thoughts are things choose the good ones.
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walkinwalkoutcattle
True Blue Farmgirl

1675 Posts

Megan
Paint Lick KY
USA
1675 Posts

Posted - Sep 14 2011 :  6:08:58 PM  Show Profile
I'll call the farrier tomorrow and try the listerine. I have him on sweet feed due to a weight problem. He was about 100 lbs short of a healthy weight-he's almost where I want him weight wise. I'll switch to oats, soon. :)

Farmgirl #2879 :)
Starbucks and sushi to green fried tomatoes and corn pudding-I wouldn't change it for the world.
www.cattleandcupcakes.blogspot.com
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gracylfreebush
Farmgirl in Training

39 Posts

Gracy
Alvin TX
USA
39 Posts

Posted - Sep 14 2011 :  6:15:36 PM  Show Profile
Having worked with underweight horses extensively I would suggest a good quality senior feed. It is specially designed for easy digestion and easily digested proteins. If you can find one that is made by a co-op or feed producer in you area then the feed will be hypoallergenic as well. I have a gelding with a weight problem and senior feed and alfalfa is about all that will keep the weight on him. We used senior feed to fatten up all our skinny's no matter what age they are. TB's notoriously have trouble keeping weight on and are more prone to ulcers. Alfalfa will help prevent ulcers and will also help with the pain if they already have them. Senior feed us usually a sweet feed but the digestive benefits of senior are unbeatable. If you use a senior from you co-op it should be natural or healthy.

Thoughts are things choose the good ones.
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oldbittyhen
True Blue Farmgirl

1511 Posts

tina
quartz hill ca
USA
1511 Posts

Posted - Sep 14 2011 :  6:30:32 PM  Show Profile
I too came back to this post to recomend Senior feed, its great for under weight and horses that are trying to come back from bad feed or health problems,...also have you checked his teeth, he may need floating, and remember all of our suggestions are not to be taken without a grain of salt, since none of us are seeing him in person, has he been veted, and wormed, blood work done, etc... a good equine vet, is worth their weight in gold...

"Knowlege is knowing that a tomato is a fruit, Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad"
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gracylfreebush
Farmgirl in Training

39 Posts

Gracy
Alvin TX
USA
39 Posts

Posted - Sep 14 2011 :  6:46:47 PM  Show Profile
Good suggestion about the teeth, that is so important. May I also suggest that unless you really really know your farrier that you get maybe a second opinion. Having done equine rescue I have dealt with numerous farriers and getting a really good one can be hit and miss. My own horses have had three different ones and I wouldn't change now unless mine retired or something. I have seen farriers do a lot of damage. You can even get recommendations on farriers from your local equine vet. If you have a vet school in your area they will sometimes give recommendations as well.

Thoughts are things choose the good ones.
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walkinwalkoutcattle
True Blue Farmgirl

1675 Posts

Megan
Paint Lick KY
USA
1675 Posts

Posted - Sep 15 2011 :  03:54:34 AM  Show Profile
I've had him wormed, and vetted. My vet also recommended my farrier. He hasn't been floated in a few years-he's been on pasture, so his teeth wear down naturally. I'm kinda on the fence about floating on a regular basis for a horse that's on pasture, personally. If he's in a stall full time then yes, but not in a pasture.



Farmgirl #2879 :)
Starbucks and sushi to green fried tomatoes and corn pudding-I wouldn't change it for the world.
www.cattleandcupcakes.blogspot.com
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gracylfreebush
Farmgirl in Training

39 Posts

Gracy
Alvin TX
USA
39 Posts

Posted - Sep 15 2011 :  12:33:41 PM  Show Profile
That is very interesting, I have never heard before that there is a difference in tooth wear between pasture and stalled horses. Mine are on pasture 85% of the time and graze pasture. I am interested to hear why there would be a difference. I am always ready to learn something new.


Thoughts are things choose the good ones.
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StrawHouseRanch
True Blue Farmgirl

1044 Posts

Paula
Holt Missouri
USA
1044 Posts

Posted - Sep 15 2011 :  1:27:12 PM  Show Profile
Hi Gracy,
Typically a horse on pasture has a wider variety of things they munch on than a horse in a stall. So their teeth get more of a workout. On pasture, they eat with their head down in a natural position, whereas a horse in a stall usually has their feed elevated so their jaw alignment and muscle utilization is not natural, potentially causing uneven wear.

Paula

Farmgirl Sister #3090
A Beehive is the ultimate Home Sweet Home
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arabianhorselover
True Blue Farmgirl

422 Posts

Jennifer
Bedias TX
USA
422 Posts

Posted - Sep 15 2011 :  1:39:55 PM  Show Profile
I had a stallion I brought home and he was very underweight. We started him on the Wendland's brand of feed and in a reasonable amount of time he was looking fantastic. He isn't my only one that I had this happen too. I had lots of suggestions for senior feed also and it may be what is right for you horse but don't worry you are on the right track to getting him better. Just takes time!

Breeder of Straight Egyptian Arabians and SportHorses
www.whisperwindsarabians.com
Farmgirl Sister #561
Never squat with your spurs on!!!

www.throughjenslens.etsy.com
http://twitter.com/arabhorselover
http://kountrybumkinfarmgirl.blogspot.com/
http://fancyfeathersfarmgirls.blogspot.com/
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sherrye
True Blue Farmgirl

3775 Posts

sherry
bend in the high desert oregon
USA
3775 Posts

Posted - Sep 17 2011 :  07:35:30 AM  Show Profile
i do not want to hijack this thread BUT paula could this true of cows also? i have rescued a cow with BAD feet. her legs are knock kneed. she was born deformed. she is 4. i trimmed 6 inches off her feet tops. what about under. she walks like she is on a round spot.????? thanks girls for letting me cut in. happy days sherrye

the learn as we go silk purse farm
farm girl #1014
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StrawHouseRanch
True Blue Farmgirl

1044 Posts

Paula
Holt Missouri
USA
1044 Posts

Posted - Sep 17 2011 :  07:44:34 AM  Show Profile
Hi Sherry,

I'm totally uneducated about bovine hooves. I've trimmed goats, but never cows. About the nutrition aspect though I would believe is true...what goes in the mouth shows in the feet.

Paula

Farmgirl Sister #3090
A Beehive is the ultimate Home Sweet Home
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MEWolf
True Blue Farmgirl

358 Posts

Margaret
Byers Colorado
USA
358 Posts

Posted - Sep 18 2011 :  9:14:04 PM  Show Profile
I worked for an Equine Vet for three years, and have worked with rehabbing horses. I agree, anytime you transition from shod to barefoot, takes a good couple of months for their hooves to stabilize. As for chipping, if you live in a dry climate, chances are his hooves will chip. One thing that has worked for our guys, is a mustang trim, rounded toes with a bit of a break seems to help with chips and flares. It took our Paint horse four months to transition completely from shoes to barefoot after he came to us for rehabbing.

As for the thrush, a ten percent solution of chlorox and water has always worked with my guys. It is cheap, easy and very effective.

I am not a fan of sweet feed for any horse. Horses' digestive systems do not process sugars and starches well. And if your guy does have ulcers, sweet feed could be exacerbating the problem. Best thing I have ever used to put weight on a horse was beet pulp and flax. The Alfalfa hay will help balance out gut acid, but if you really think he has ulcers, you probably need to have him scoped. However that said, I would recommend starting him on something like Succeed first. Try that for 60 days and see if he doesn't start to gain some weight. If he is still not gaining weight after that trial, I would contact your Vet about scoping him. Ulcers can be so painful for horses, but they can be managed.

Good luck, it is hard to see one's horse suffer. For all their size they certainly are delicate creatures!

Margaret

“Kind hearts are the gardens, kind thoughts are the roots, kind words are the flowers, kind deeds are the fruits. Take care of your garden and keep out the weeds, fill it with sunshine, kind words and kind deeds.” ~Henry Wadsworth Longfellow (1808-1882)
Farmgirl #3020
www.grey-wolf-farm.com
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traildancer
True Blue Farmgirl

485 Posts

Loyce
Glide OR
USA
485 Posts

Posted - Sep 20 2011 :  09:04:33 AM  Show Profile
I second the suggestion to use beet pulp. I ride my horses so much that they go in to winter thin. When I started feeding beet pulp twice a day when I was camping or packing in, they kept weight on going in to winter.

From what I understand, it is easy for the horse to digest, it gives their stomach something to work on (read--have food in their stomach when they are on the highline all night without continuous access to feed) and it keeps moisture in their gut to help prevent colic.

I mix it with whole oats and salt. One feeding a day I add vitamins. The formula I use is one or two parts beet pulp and one or two parts oats, using whatever container I chose. Remember to soak the beet pulp well. It expands about six times the dry amount. When I'm camping, I soak the next feeding right after the previous feeding, if I remember!!! If you use hot water it seems to soak up faster. Some horses like it with all the water soaked up. Others like it soupy.

When I first started feeding beet pulp, the horses didn't like it so I added a little more grain to the mix. Now they whicker for it. Even at the sound of the pellets hitting the bucket or when the dog food hits the bowl. It's kind of funny. I think I could feed it plain and they would scarf it down.

The trail is the thing.... Louis L'Amour
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StrawHouseRanch
True Blue Farmgirl

1044 Posts

Paula
Holt Missouri
USA
1044 Posts

Posted - Sep 20 2011 :  10:51:52 AM  Show Profile
Beet pulp (without molasses, of course) is also an excelllent low-starch feed for laminitic or metabolic horses.

Paula

Farmgirl Sister #3090
Yesterday is History, Tomorrow is a Mystery, and Today is a Gift.
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walkinwalkoutcattle
True Blue Farmgirl

1675 Posts

Megan
Paint Lick KY
USA
1675 Posts

Posted - Sep 20 2011 :  4:36:34 PM  Show Profile
hmm. How much beet pulp to water ratio are we talking as a baseline? This convo is going great. Maybe I should start one on "This is my horse/problems/this is what I feed type thread.

Farmgirl #2879 :)
Starbucks and sushi to green fried tomatoes and corn pudding-I wouldn't change it for the world.
www.cattleandcupcakes.blogspot.com
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RedHoopWoman
True Blue Farmgirl

513 Posts

Kathryn
Yoder Colorado
USA
513 Posts

Posted - Sep 20 2011 :  5:17:14 PM  Show Profile
Beet pulp is a good high calorie and fiber supplement for hard keepers and seniors but I would make sure that your horse's ration is well balanced whether you feed grain or not as it has very negligible nutrient values,only about eight percent protein and scarce amounts of other nutrients or minerals.
I use it as a supplement for my Thoroughbred and my Appendix Quarter horse,my vet recommending feeding no more than ten pounds (dry weight) daily as a general rule though I do not feed that much as I give my horses a good quality senior feed and alfalfa/grass hay.
Hot water absorbs faster and I only fill enough water to a couple inches above the dry beet pulp,add more if necessary but I find it is usually enough for shreds or pellets.

"Today's Mighty Oak is just Yesterday's Nut"
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gracylfreebush
Farmgirl in Training

39 Posts

Gracy
Alvin TX
USA
39 Posts

Posted - Sep 20 2011 :  11:19:52 PM  Show Profile
After rehabing neglected and abused horses I just want to throw in here, that beet pulp is good for adding fiber to the diet and for keeping the stomach working as mentioned by Kathryn but you need to remember when feeding beet pulp that it has to be soaked until very wet and soft and Beet pulp has no nutritional value. It is great for older horses and horses that are being rehabed or if your horse is not getting sufficient fiber in grass, hay, alfalfa etc. Horses do not metabolize grains well. They do better with a extruded pellet made from hay's, grasses etc. In an older horse that has experienced poor nutrition and even a younger horse the best way to beef them up is beet pulp mixed with senior feed and alfalfa. Alfalfa is very high in calcium so it is very good for feeding a horse with ulcers. Teeth floating is imperative when working on a skinny horse. Although pasture grazing is better than being stall bound pasture fed horses do grow points on their teeth and those points will cause ulcers on the tongue and in the cheek. Also, if you are not getting teeth floated at least once a year you won't catch problems like broken or cracked teeth caused from biting down to hard on something or getting kicked by another horse. I am speaking from first hand experience. I got a mostly pasture fed horse who had not had his teeth checked in years and he had three broken teeth. Checking the teeth yearly is important in pasture grazed horses or stall bound horses.
If your horse has bad, teeth, i.e. broken chipped or uneven, they will not chew their feed properly and the body will not process it properly. So you might as well be throwing it in the garbage because they will just poop it out again without getting the benefit of the feed.

Thoughts are things choose the good ones.
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RedHoopWoman
True Blue Farmgirl

513 Posts

Kathryn
Yoder Colorado
USA
513 Posts

Posted - Sep 22 2011 :  09:18:25 AM  Show Profile
Hi Gracy,I agree with you on alot of what you said but as far as beet pulp having no nutritional value,that is innacurate,it is as I said of "negligible" nutrient value,meaning that it will not fill in for any gaps in your horses nutrition,you can get the actual nutrient analysis of beet pulp from extension service resources and other resources like TheHorse.com which is a more veterinary minded magazine for those interested in horse health topics,it does have a nutrient value but is barely worth considering and that's why I say you would want to make sure you are already feeding a balanced ration that supplies all of your horses's nutrient values as you can't count on much at all from beet pulp.
There has been research done that says you can feed beet pulp dry,it is not dangerous to feed dry and will not overly absorb water from your horse's gut and dehydrate,cause impaction,etc..otherwise there would be alot of horses suffering from the dry content of beet pulp in thier formulated feeds but most people,myself included,feed it soaked with water for the extra hydration benefits it offers.
A horse can colic on anything at anytime and my vet has even told me he's treated horses who were impacted by very wet and heavy material such as soaked beet pulp and grain mixture,that can definitely happen too when feeding large volumes or making changes that a horse is unadapted to in thier diet,anyways,there's studies that have been done in veterinary colleges that have determined it is safe to feed beet pulp dry if you desire to do so.
Teeth are definitely one of the most important factors as Gracy said,my vet does an annual tooth floating on my horses and I check regularly throughout the year for any hooks or uneven wear as some horses wear thier teeth down unevenly and need more care than some other might,particularly aged horses or those with any kinds of maloclusion of the jaw.
I think that the teeth are the most important element and like Gracy said,without good tooth care all the feed you put into them will be going to waste.

"Today's Mighty Oak is just Yesterday's Nut"
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leigh12354
Farmgirl in Training

19 Posts

Leigh
Riverside CA
USA
19 Posts

Posted - Dec 04 2011 :  11:44:21 AM  Show Profile
Thank you so much for the information. All I have seen is articles about beet pulp getting beat up. Guess I will have to try it.
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leigh12354
Farmgirl in Training

19 Posts

Leigh
Riverside CA
USA
19 Posts

Posted - Dec 16 2011 :  2:23:06 PM  Show Profile
This is such great information. I will recommend this forum for those who need good info.
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