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Stitching & Crafting Room:  Serger users... any guidance?  |
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Karrieann
True Blue Farmgirl
1900 Posts
Karrieann
Northeast
Georgia
USA
1900 Posts |
 Posted - Feb 15 2010 : 10:41:45 AM
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I have been given a serger from Grandma.. via my Mom. I know how to sew pretty well on traditional sewing machine. So I am not afraid to sew ...but... I am apprehensive toward the serger! I read and read and read its instructions, now I am totally lost. I would love to learn it and do serge sewing on my products. After seeing one of Grace's aprons in person.. I am jealous of her beautiful finished seams!
Any guidance, suggestion on how for me to move forward?
Thanks!
Karrieann ~ Farmgirl Sister #766 (29 Sept 2009)
My etsy: Yesterday's Scraps, Tomorrow's Treasures http://www.etsy.com/shop/2TomorrowsTreasures |
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Sheep Mom 2
True Blue Farmgirl
1534 Posts
Sheri
Elk
WA
USA
1534 Posts |
Posted - Feb 15 2010 : 10:53:17 AM
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Hi Karrieann. first question - Is your serger threaded? How many threads does it have (3, 4 or 5)? Have you tried it on a sample piece of fabric to see if the threads are balanced? Since you are an experienced sewer, let me fill you in on what you have to do different with a serger vs a sewing machine. First off - NEVER put pins where the knife could hit them if they damage the knife its really expensive to replace. Second, you must run the thread out with the foot pedal at the end of a seam - just keep your foot down and feed the chain off and then cut the threads. You can't just pull the thread out like on a sewing machine. Be really careful that any extra fabric is well away from the knife or you could end up with accidental nicks in your fabric. Sergers are easy to operate. What brand do you have? The main thing is to keep the thread tensions balanced so that the looper stitches run along the edge of the fabric unless you are doing a rolled hem.
If it's threaded already, you can tie the new threads to the old ones (I would do one at a time if possible making sure the knot is uber tight and tails trimmed pretty close) and slowly run the new threads through. This works with all but the needle and is easier when changing thread (in my opinion) especially with an older model. I hope that helps a little.
Blessings, Sheri
"Work is Love made visible" -Kahlil Gibran |
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Karrieann
True Blue Farmgirl
1900 Posts
Karrieann
Northeast
Georgia
USA
1900 Posts |
Posted - Feb 15 2010 : 11:03:15 AM
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Well, I have a four cone.. er four threads and it is a Singer (14u) It is still packed in it's Styrofoam casing, not threaded.
The tips that you gave above are a great start for me.
Karrieann ~ Farmgirl Sister #766 (29 Sept 2009)
My etsy: Yesterday's Scraps, Tomorrow's Treasures http://www.etsy.com/shop/2TomorrowsTreasures |
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Faransgirl
True Blue Farmgirl
895 Posts
Beth
Houston
Texas
USA
895 Posts |
Posted - Feb 15 2010 : 12:31:42 PM
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Most sergers have color coded threading, with arrows that show you which way to go with each thread. On mine you have to start with the thread furthest to the right. Your instruction manual should tell you if this is necessary on yours. I try to never rethread I do what Sheri suggests and tie mine off. Like she says never ever use pins by the knife. I would suggest you get some old fabric and just play with it awhile before trying to actually use it. Do you know if has differential feed? Good luck, don't be afraid of it and just play with it for a while.
Farmgirl Sister 572
May the force of the horse be with you. |
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Sheep Mom 2
True Blue Farmgirl
1534 Posts
Sheri
Elk
WA
USA
1534 Posts |
Posted - Feb 15 2010 : 2:36:53 PM
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Like Beth says - most are color coded and have arrows to show where to run the threads. It may be pre-threaded if it's still in the styrofoam. If it is, then securely tie the threads - double check by tugging the knots to make sure they don't pull apart when feeding through. If it's not pre-threaded, then look at the threading guide in your manual. The lower looper thread is the one that goes through the long looper arm and is usually threaded by hooking the thread in a little hook which slides to pull the thread through the looper tunnel. If it's an older model, you may have to use a looper threader tool. The thread then goes through the hole in the end of the looper. The second looper goes through the small looper finger on the right. These two threads make the chain overcast. Double check your manual to make sure the threads are in the right position over these looper fingers. The other two threads are your needle threads. One completes the overcast and the other adds another row of stitching for security in the seam. If you are just using it for overcasting, you can go to just three threads as the extra row of stitching is unnecessary unless you are seaming. If you are using three threads, then one of the needles needs to be removed - refer to your manual.
Once it's threaded run a test piece through the serger. If the overcast isn't on the edge, adjust your tensions. I would begin with the lower looper tension if it's pulling the stitches under. Just play with the tensions until the overcast edge runs along the edge of your fabric. Don't be afraid to adjust the tensions. If it isn't making a chain once it's threaded (as soon as it's threaded, Make sure all the threads are under the presserfoot and with it down, try running the threads through with the foot pedal - holding on to the threads with your left hand to see if it's chaining.) If it isn't making a chain, then the loopers are threaded incorrectly. I hope that helps. I have an Elna 5 thread and a Viking 4 thread and they are pretty much the same although the Viking has differential feed and is newer so can do rolled hemming without changing the needle plate.
Blessings, Sheri
"Work is Love made visible" -Kahlil Gibran |
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Stitching & Crafting Room: Serger users... any guidance? |
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Serger users... any guidance?
