I finally found on my machine which is the pin stitch (kind of looks like the side of a hair comb or dentil molding).
I am hemming a linen dress for an event tomorrow... my question is should the pin stich swing over the edge of the turned up hem into the dress material or run completely inside the hem allowance?
I have stitched both ways on scraps and they both have an appeal... would love some feedback as this is the first time I've attempted a decorative hem.
it turned out great! I was able to stitch with the fabric wrong side up (the stitches actually turned out better that way) and I just guided the fold of the hem under a mark on my foot that allowed the "ladder" to run just above the fold and the "step" to swing down into the hem alowance a little ways. I did use a wing needle, so there are little holes with each stitch. It looks like there are two pin stitch functions on my machine, one has a stitch that thread only goes once across each pass, but the other is a multi-pass which I selected to re-inforce the hole created by the wing needle. I used a non-aersol spray starch which set the hem quite solidly, so I didn't baste the hem before stitching. on a different fabric I probably would though. Really cool. will definitely try on another linen project!