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Kati
True Blue Farmgirl
76 Posts
Kati
North Pole
AK
USA
76 Posts |
 Posted - Nov 08 2007 : 10:31:43 AM
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So, I know that I've mentioned my grocery bags around here, and Jess (Smoothiejuice) has as well, so I thought I'd share the pattern with anybody who wants it. The disclaimer at the end holds true, but I hope I don't offend at the same time. I have no problems with folks making the bags for themselves, or to sell in their own communities. But the typical copywrite standards hold fast.
If you have any problem understanding the pattern (because I know my writing isn't completely clear, and since this was done primarily as a cheat-sheet for myself I wasn't too worried about writing it that way origionally), let me know and I'll try to clear it up as best I can.
Blessings!
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Kati's Net Grocery Sack
created by Kati Armbruster, copyright May 2007.
Bag should require approx. 4 balls of Lily Sugar & Cream yarn. This is somewhat dependent on whether you are chosing solid colors or ombres, as ombre balls contain less yarn than do balls of solid color. You will need approx 8 oz of "kitchen cotton" yarn, though. If you use Lion Brand cotton (solid color) this is only about 2 balls worth. It never hurts to have that 4th ball of the Lily S&C on hand, even if you do not use it in this bag. It can be saved later for a matching dish rag or wash cloth.
US size I/9 (5.5 mm) hook needed. May go a size smaller, but a size larger may result in more yarn being needed.
For beginning ring, ch 4 then join with slip stitch to first ch to form ring.
Round 1) Ch 3 (counts as first Double Crochet here & through-out), dc 13 more times into ring, for 14 total "dc stitches", join to top of initial ch3 to end row.
R2) Ch 3, then dc into same stitch, 2 dc into each stitch around, giving 28 total stitches. To finish round, join w/ sl(ip) stitch into top of initial ch3.
R3) Ch 3, dc into same st, 1 dc into next st, 2 dc into third stitch, alternating 1-2-1-2 all the way around. Should give 42 st at end of round. Join with sl st to top of initial ch 3.
R4) ch 4 (counts as initial DC + 1 here & through-out), dc + ch 1 in next stitch and in each stitch around for a T T T T appearance, final ch 1 should join with sl st to third ch in initial stitch.
R5) first sl st into space between first and second dc's of underlying row then repeat same as round 4.
R6) sl st into first ch 1 space of underlying row (so that each row new rows of dc occurs into sp between dc's in the previous row, will be same here & throughout, when creating our net stitch), ch 4 & dc again into same space as initial ch 4, 1 dc + ch 1 in next stitch; dc, ch 1, dc in next stitch for a T V T V T V T appearance all the way around. Join with sl st into third ch of initial stitch.
R's 7 & 8) repeat round 4.
R9) ch 4; dc + ch 1 in each of next 2 stitches, dc + ch 1 two times in next stitch, all the way around for a T T T V T T T V T T T V apperance. Join with sl stitch to third ch st in initial stitch.
R's 10 - 23) repeat round 4.
R24) ch 4; dc + ch 1 into each of next 2 ch sp; dec(rease) in next 2 stitches (should resemble an inverted V); repeat around for T T T ^ T T T ^ T T T ^ appearance. Join with sl st to third ch in initial stitch.
R's 25 - 28) repeat row 4
R29) repeat row 24.
R's 30 - 31) repeat row 4.
R32) do NOT ch 4, but ch one and sc (single crochet) into same stitch & top of every st around, joining to first sc with sl st to complete round.
To begin as for strap, first sl st into next 20 st (begin as for round 32, but do not ch 1 -- sl st instead). This is simply to offset the strap from where our rounds began & ended, reducing the strain on that part of the bag.
Row 1) For first st of strap, ch 3, then dc in next 17 stitches below for a solid 18 dc's all together. Ch 3 and turn. (Should resemble: TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT)
Row 2) ch 3, dc into next st underneath, dec(rease) in next two underlying dc's, dc across to last 4 dc in underlying row; dec in next 2 st, and dc in last 2 stitches for an appearance like TT^TTTTTTTTTT^TT. Ch 3 & turn
Row 3) Dc in each stitch across for a total of 16 stitches. Ch 3 & turn.
Row 4) dc in next st from beginning ch 3, dec(rease) in next 2 st, dc across to last 4 dc in underlying row, dec in next 2 st, and dc in last 2 stitches for an appearance of TT^TTTTTTTT^TT. Ch 3 & turn.
Row 5) dc in each st across for a total of 14 st. Ch 3 & turn.
Rows 6 through 9) continue in same way, decreasing by 2 st in every other row until you have only 10 dc's across.
continue creating rows of 10 stitches till you have approx. 17 such rows. The next row will begin the increasing to re-enlarge the strap until you've got 18 st across as in your first row. If folded over on itself, the enlarging side of the strap should mirror the decreasing side of the strap.
To finish off, ch 1 (and pull up a bit of excess in that loop to prevent your underlying stitches from falling out as you do this) and fold bag up in such a way that you are able to work from inside edge of bag. Single crochet through top stitch of bag & top st of your strap to strongly fasten together the edge of your strap to the edge of the bag (after adjusting the strap so it fits as close to exactly around other side of bag from where your strap began). Finish off by leaving yourself a tail of about 8 inches, and weave that 8 inch tail into stitching of bag for strength.
Washing instructions: This is a cotton yarn. Strong colors will likely bleed. It should be washed alone (and possibly with a bit of salt or vinegar in the rinse water to set the color a bit) for the initial laundering. As it is cotton it may be machine washed, though it certainly doesn't hurt to follow specific directions on the yarn pkging. Lily S&C directs to machine wash in cool water with mild detergent. Do not use bleach. Rinse well & remove promptly. Either gently squeeze excess water before shaping & drying flat, or briefly spin dry in dryer on low setting. Reshape & ly flat to dry. Wash colors seperately. Certain colors may bleed.
As this is a cotton grocery bag without real shaping necessary, I see no reason that it cannot be thoroughly dried in a warm drier. I've had no problems with throwing my completed bags in with regular towels & such. It will cause the stitching of the bag to contract a bit, but it will also soften the feel of the yarn. Does not seem to affect the strength of the bag in any way.
A word about copy-right. This is my pattern created through trial & error, without buming off of anybody else's pattern. I realize that not all of my rows will end precisely (some of the increase & decrease rounds, to be specific, will be a little off in their pattern at the end). That's ok. I wrote this for myself as a memory prompt though I'm willing to pass it on if asked. If you desire to make this for yourself, that's fine. Please do NOT pass on this pattern to others without my permission, certainly do not SELL this pattern as it's mine and that'd be theft. If you desire to make these bags for others, I also ask that you do it as a gift, not selling them, as my origional intent in writing up this pattern was to make it easier for me to make consistently sized bags for selling. If you're selling them as well, you're cutting into the market I'd been looking at, and with my own pattern no less. Again with the infringement. If you wish to sell bags of your own, please use your own pattern, or a pattern posted by somebody NOT of the Fairbanks area. If you still desire to sell this bag, ask.... Maybe you live in Wasilla, in which case your market area would be different from mine and we would not be competing for customers. That is perfectly permissible, with permission first. And, to reiterate, never presume to call this pattern your own, as it has taken a decent bit of work by ME to come up with it, "perfect it" and write it. To not give me credit as creator of this pattern is also theft. Sorry to be so long winded, and Thanks for your consideration.
Katharine (Kati) Armbruster |
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My Cotton Net Grocery Sack pattern
