T O P I C R E V I E W |
summerbreeze |
Posted - Jun 16 2006 : 5:36:25 PM Hi Everyone, I'm a new "farm girl" wana be. I am starting on a small scale. This is my first try at tomato plants in the state of Washington. My plants have lots of green foliage but no tomatoes setting. Any advice?
Thank you.
You only live once,if you do it right once is enough. |
8 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
Destiny~ |
Posted - Jun 22 2006 : 05:48:20 AM There was something in my Organic Gardening magazine that stated that tomato plants don't pollinate until night time temperatures are between 60 and 70'. From what you were saying about your weather, I don't think you've reached that point yet. If that helps at all.
"Let us, together, sow seeds for a better harvest-a harvest for hope." Jane Goodall, Harvest for Hope |
santa_gertrudis_gal |
Posted - Jun 20 2006 : 10:54:23 AM Laura,
Some suggestions for you on other crops. Radishes are easy to grow and will not fail. They tolerate cool temps well too. Squash (yellow or zuchinni) is another easy veggie to grow. With your short growing season I would choose to purchase plants to fully utilize your July temperatures. They will continue to produce right up until the first frost. One squash plant will provide you with enough squash to eat right off the plant. Two will give you enough to can or freeze. Both these veggies are easy and provide loads of confidence to a new gardner.
Some one mentioned a soil test kit. Although, not so great if you don't understand the relationship of NPK then it is of little use to the new gardener. I still find the technical writing for soil test kits written in greek. This is from one who has degrees in Agriculture. I just didn't specialize in Soil Science but I do have the core course in soil science. I found a good website that explains NPK (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium). NPK is expressed in fertilizers as 10-10-10 or similiar depending on the type of fertilizer. The website explains what the defiencies are for the each Ideally, if you really want to stay organic, then your organic fertilizers are best. For our gardens either flower, shrubs or vegatable and fruits we have always have a compost pile. On top of that we have a rabbitry. My suggestion is build a compost pile, everything goes in the compost pile except meat and coffee grounds. All table scraps, leaves, grass clippings and then to help the compost take off and let the bacteria break it down add some sort of uncomposted manure. It doesn't hurt to add about a cup of fertilizer to the pile with each layer, spinkled over the top of the layer, then watered in. Living in Texas mine is ready in 4-6 months. In your climit you would leave it for a year, then start a second when the first is full. Trust me they don't stink. Living in Texas mine is ready in 4-6 months. We use our compost pile to build new beds for my ever increasing passion with roses. The rabbit manure from the rabbitry is used either in the compost pile, or goes straight into the gardens. Rabbit manure will not burn your plants and serves two purposes. First it is a mulch, and second it is the best slow release fertilizer you can use. Not only do you get the proper ratio of NPK for flowers, fruits and veggies, but it also contains much need micro-nutrients for the plants. If you do decide to use a formulated fertilizer either commerical or organic for your vegatables use a ratio like 10-10-10 or 13-13-13. Just make sure the numbers are all the same.
The website is for explaining NPK is:
http://www.potashcorp.com/learn_about_fertilizer/about/nitrogen/page_1.zsp
As a note, I no nothing about this company, I just think they give a good explaination about NPK.
As for rabbit manure, the very best fertilizer and compost I've ever used. The only organic amendment I have to purchase is a soil acidifier for my gardenias. It really is easy to find. Go to my thread 'Rabbits in My World' under Barnyard Buddies to find rabbit breeders in your area. Believe me I love to get those calls. I don't charge anything for the manure. One just has to clean my barn for it.
One other suggestion for vegatable beds (raised beds), when built don't fill with soil to the top of the bed. I leave 4-6 inches from top of bed, this allows for new soil to settle and for you to add compost and mix with the old soil. That six inch space will allow you three to five years before you need to take out soil before adding your yearly compost. Also note with raised beds and excellent soil conditions you can plant three plants in the space reccomended for two. Except for squash, as they are huge anyway.
Above all have fun gardening. It is by far the most relaxing habit in the world. For me, it's watching my roses bloom, my veggies and fruits producing, and herbs to cook with. It is the unbelievable satisfaction that I with God's help gave me the beauty of the world in my own little corner.
Kim
Heaven is a day at the ranch with my Santa Gertrudis! |
ali2583 |
Posted - Jun 19 2006 : 4:08:38 PM Kay definitely knows what she's talking about. Tomatoes need lots of sun and lots of heat to get going. But up here, we've had nothing but rain for the month of June - surprisingly, I have 2 tomatoes starting on my Big Boy Beefsteak, go figure. I would also try those tomato fertilizer sticks (I know, I know, it's not organic) but they work really well. Jobe's makes them, you can find them at Walmart.
"God's gift to you is life. What you choose to do with that life is your gift to God" |
therusticcottage |
Posted - Jun 18 2006 : 9:27:12 PM Laura -- it is early for tomatoes here. You will need to buy early types especially for this area -- Early Girl, Early Boy, etc. There are many different varities -- do a search on the internet or ask at your garden center. If you don't start your own from seed buy gallon size plants. It is well worth it. It takes too long for the smaller ones to mature in our cool climate. I have 4 golf ball sized tomatoes on my Early Girl but need some heat for it to really get going. My Brandywine has a few blossoms but it will be a while for that one. Both of my tomatoes are in containers. I have 3 raised beds that I finished this year -- (2) 4 x 4 and (1) 2 x 8. Then I have lettuce and other things in regular pots. The best books that I could recommend are Square Foot Gardening and Lasagna Gardening. Of all that I've had those are my favorites. Go ahead and put in whatever you like. You could probably still get some lettuce before the really hot weather gets here in July. Then I wouldn't plant any more until the middle of August for cool weather harvest. Hope this helps.
Visit my blog at http://rusticcottage.blogspot.com/
Lotion bars, linen water & more in my online shop! http://therusticcottage.etsy.com
|
summerbreeze |
Posted - Jun 17 2006 : 8:46:31 PM Thanks for all the great info. I checked at the nursery today and they tell me it is still early here. I did buy a kit to check my soil. When I checked today I had one starting to set. It has been very cold and lots of rain here this spring. I needed a jacket today. Do I stick with just the tomatoes this year or do I get brave a try a lot of stuff. I am planting in containers right now, we are building the garden beds over the next few weeks. Any suggestions for a garden lay out? I have about 10 books from the library on order. If anyone can recommend a good one that would be great.
You only live once,if you do it right once is enough. |
asnedecor |
Posted - Jun 17 2006 : 07:45:18 AM Laura -
I am just south of you in Portland, OR and it is still early. I have very large tomato plants that I started from seed and just in the last couple of weeks I have started to see some blossoms. It has been pretty cool weather wise, so don't start to fret yet. We still have plenty of time for them to blossom and produce tomatoes.
Anne in Portland
"Second star to the right, straight on till morning" Peter Pan
|
Aunt Jenny |
Posted - Jun 16 2006 : 7:26:46 PM Welcome Laura! I agree...there are several things that could cause it..HOpefully just time will help. Maybe one of our other Washington state girls will know more about when tomatoes should blossom there. Here in Utah I have some blossoms and some not blossomed yet..but my plants arn't very big yet. I didn't put mine out until Memorial day and later..started them indoors in March and April.
Jenny in Utah Inside me there is a skinny woman crying to get out...but I can usually shut her up with cookies http://www.auntjennysworld.blogspot.com/ visit my little online shop at www.auntjenny.etsy.com |
brightmeadow |
Posted - Jun 16 2006 : 6:38:17 PM It might be early yet, when did you set them out? Here in Ohio I have blossoms on some varieties and still waiting on others. We had such cold rainy weather in late May I didn't get them planted until the first of June, and it has been chilly here (50's at night) so far in June, so they're not growing as fast as I had hoped. My past experience has been that no matter how early I start them in pots, it doesn't really matter until I put them into the ground in the garden. I still expect to have tomatoes by mid-July, maybe 1st of August. What are your frost dates?
What variety of tomato did you plant, and what is the maturity (in days) for that variety? I try to plant a few plants of several different varieties. Early tomatoes (maturing in 65 or fewer days) are the ones I get in mid- July, the later ones (up to and beyond 80 days) I don't get much of a crop until September.
Another possibility is that your soil is high in nitrogen, feeding the leaves more than the roots/blossoms. Did you test it? Soil test kits are available at most garden stores or your county extension agent can probably advise.
You shall eat the fruit of the labor of your hands - You shall be happy and it shall be well with you. -Psalm 128.2 Visit my web site store at http://www.watkinsonline.com/fish or my homepage at http://home.earthlink.net/~brightmeadow |
|
|