| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| cmandle |
Posted - Jul 27 2006 : 8:23:44 PM
Oh Farmgirls...I'm a much better knitter than I am a sewer! But I'm thrilled to pieces about this charm square quilt thing and am trying to practice on my sewing machine again before the fabric arrives. I'm making an apron for a girlfriend's bridal shower (it's a stupidly simple pattern, no problems there), but have spent the majority of the afternoon and evening fighting my machine about TENSION.
Can any of you tell me how my sewing machine works?
My "user's manual" just tells me how to change the tension (I know that), not how to tell what type of tension is right for the fabric (standard cotton quilting fabric). While we're on the topic, I can't seem to figure out how to figure out stitch width and length either...
So what I need is a magic combination for tension, stitch width and stitch length and then I'll be good to go! Any advice?
I swear, I've been so tempted to scrap the machine part and just sew it by hand so many times. I'm much better with my hands, but really want to master this machine. It has 22 stitches on it and I've only used 2! (In 6 years!)
Thanks, thanks!
Catherine
p.s. My last resort is my big "Encyclopedia of Sewing" but I'm too tired to crack that open now. Figured it was more fun to ask you all anyway!!
http://yogurtandgranola.blogspot.com |
| 9 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Carolinagirl |
Posted - Jul 28 2006 : 07:49:54 AM
Catherine-
I haven't read through all the posts yet, but I'm pretty sure they were able to answer your question. I'm a sewing dummy, but I found this link on the web this week when I was searching for darts (on the doll I'm sewing) http://craftandfabriclinks.com/sewingbook/sewbook.html
It may be of help sometime in the future!
Take care-
Kim in NC |
| cmandle |
Posted - Jul 28 2006 : 07:01:01 AM
Thank you! Oh, Jenny, Fran, Di and Rhonda - you've all given excellent advice. (I love this forum!!!) I was so puzzled because I never used to have this problem but the *needle size* comments made me stop to think. Hmm...the last thing I sewed was a pair of flannel pants for DH. Bet I changed the needle from my "regular" cotton one to the heavier flannel one. Sure enough, the chart in my user's manual calls for an orange- or blue-topped needle for cottons and the red-topped one for flannel. My red-topped needle is in the machine now but as soon as the boy goes down for a nap, I'm going to switch it out and try it again!
You all reminded me too, that I need to get my machine in for a good cleaning. It's time to love my sewing machine like I love my knitting needles (they have a nice fabric case where they live!).
Also, you've all made me feel not so weird about the prospect of having two sewing machines! My mom is giving me her old Singer (it's an actual piece of furniture, the machine flips down into the table when not in use) and while I'm totally excited about it, I wondered what in the heck I would do with two machines. As far as I can tell, they can pretty much do the same stuff, but I just *want* hers. I mean, she doesn't use it anymore, wants to get rid of it and it's *my mom's.* That's pretty important to me. Come to think of it, hers will need a good cleaning too! Better get out the yellow pages...
I will let you all know how it goes! (I've never been so excited to change a needle before...)
Catherine
http://yogurtandgranola.blogspot.com |
| abbasgurl |
Posted - Jul 27 2006 : 9:47:39 PM
What Fran said... :) I sew medium weight cotton on a setting of 3-4 on my machine. When sewing doll parts I use the smallest stitch, setting 1 or less. The parts are less likely to split when stuffing if you sew them this way. Topstitching is a longer stitch-you decide what looks good to you on that one. Oh, and if you are machine gathering use the longest stitch possible, a 6 on my machine. You might need a good basic book on machine sewing instead of just the manual. There are lots of little tricks that you will want to know. Of course asking here is good too! These ladies might even recommend a book or two-heck they might even swap you for one! :)
Rhonda
...and I will sing at the top of my lungs, and I will dance, even if I'm the only one! |
| DaisyFarm |
Posted - Jul 27 2006 : 9:36:57 PM
To add a little further, take white thread and sew on a really dark, doubled-over fabric...just a straight line. If you have little loops forming on the top of the fabric, your tension is too tight. If you have little loops showing on the bottom, the tension is too loose. Pretty much the loops should be hidden in the fabric. The one thing that will truly drive you nuts is trying to adjust your tension when you're using a dull or wrong type of needle. A 9 or 11 is good for most cotton and cotton blends. If you sew jersey or stretch material, be sure to use a stretch needle.
And I couldn't agree with Fran more about sewing for others. I did it professionally at home for several years and I think I have post-traumatic sewing syndrome. Never ever again! lol I owe thanks to Frannie for inspiring me to actually sit at my machines again and make a couple of her little primitive dolls. I actually had fun!! I might even make an apron!
Di
ps. speaking of aprons, I bought two of the most pretty, almost new, queen-size sheets from the thrift store for $2.00 each. Great for making aprons! I will do it, honest...
|
| frannie |
Posted - Jul 27 2006 : 9:17:07 PM
if you are sewing on cotton fabric that is medium or light weight then the setting for tension is usually in the mid range, ie 3-4 on a scale of 1-6.
i have alot of sewing machines and i dont really mess much with the tension.
you can tell if it is a possible tension problem if the threads are not equally distributed on the top and bottom of the fabric., ie they pull out easy, they are loopy, like you might be after working with this sewing machine, hahaha;;;;ooops sorry.
what problem exactly are you having, is the thread bunching up on the bottom of the fabric, is the fabric breaking, sometimes it helps to clean out the bobbin area with the little brush and then oil the bobbin area in the designated areas with a fine motor oil.
also, you might need to change the needle if it is not the right type or too big for the fabric weight you are using.(or like me, too old and not quite as sharp as it used to be)
i hope these suggestions help and i do think it would help if you describe the specific problem that is occurring.
i dont know why, but my mom, god rest her soul, was an incredible seamstress and put many more hours on her machine than i will ever do and her advice was always, "dont adjust the tension". so to this day i hardly ever adjust the tension.
when all else fails, i usually cry.
hope this helps.
frannie
oh yea, since i like to consider sewing as "fun" my advise is i never sew for a deadline and i only make what i want to, i dont sew for other folks, that is my sewing advice, cause i have in all i think six sewing machines and i have never taken on a project on my machine
with a deadline without my machine bombing on me. i dont know, but machines i think do have a sort of intelligence and they know, like when you save up enough money to buy something special and the washing machine breaks, think about it?, anywho good luck and let me know if there si any other way i can help
frannie |
| Aunt Jenny |
Posted - Jul 27 2006 : 9:12:30 PM
What I do..since most of the sewing machines I have had over the years didn't come with a manual anyway, and all are pretty different... is get a scrap of whatever type fabric (the weight anyway) you plan to use and double it over and practice going back and forth sewing it and adjusting as you sew until the tension looks good. Then I take a perm. marker and make a tiny dot at that spot on the tension dial so I remember. I sew on quilting type cotton more than anything else so I rarely have to adjust the tension. Once you find what is just right you won't have to move it much. As far as stitch length...I like about 10 stitches per inch..but it isn't always marked that way on the dial either!! So...same thing..just try it on a scrap until you like it. I like shortish stitch length for strength. Don't feel bad about not using all your stitches on your machine. I tend to use straight, zig zag and the mending stitch that looks like a zig zag with several stitches on each "zig" and each "zag". I have a very basic Singer sewing machine that I use every day, an old 50's Singer, and a 10 year old Singer with alot of stitches that I have never used..it even has embroidery stuff. Maybe some day. I do love to hand embroidery so I havn't used that. My machine dosn't adjust tension at the bobbin case. But all brands are different. I had a Kenmore for years and they are good.
Good luck. I know I am not much help.
Jenny in Utah
Inside me there is a skinny woman crying to get out...but I can usually shut her up with cookies
http://www.auntjennysworld.blogspot.com/ visit my little online shop at www.auntjenny.etsy.com |
| cmandle |
Posted - Jul 27 2006 : 8:50:29 PM
I have a Kenmore model # 385.17324. But I'm not so much worried about technical information as I'm seeking "how do you know"-type information. Like, with the type of fabric I'm using, how do I know what my tension, stitch width and stitch length should be set to? (My user's manual only refers to one spot to change tension...)
Thanks, in advance, for the help!
Catherine
http://yogurtandgranola.blogspot.com |
| sunshine |
Posted - Jul 27 2006 : 8:32:31 PM
ther are usually two spots to tension one on the bobbin case and one on the front of the machine unless it is electronic then I just don't know
have a lovely day and may God bless you and keep you safe
http://sunshinescreations.blogspot.com/
http://sunshine.harbaugh.googlepages.com/home |
| sunshine |
Posted - Jul 27 2006 : 8:30:55 PM
please state machine name and type as they are all a little differnt espesilly expensive ones
have a lovely day and may God bless you and keep you safe
http://sunshinescreations.blogspot.com/
http://sunshine.harbaugh.googlepages.com/home |
|
|
