| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| mommatracy |
Posted - Apr 25 2009 : 11:22:33 AM
I am working on my grandaughters Christening gown. I ordered some French shaping lace through Martha Pullen. I get how to shape the lace with the threads that are to be pulled. I also know starch is used. Here's my question. Should I starch the lace,let it dry,then shape it or, shape it,starch it,pin it in the shape I want, then let it dry I can order a tutorial CD for 39.99 plus shipping but would rather figure it out with some advice from an experienced lace shaper. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Tracy
www.cottagebythebay.blogspot.com |
| 5 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Sheep Mom 2 |
Posted - Apr 26 2009 : 09:04:36 AM
When I am working on really narrow stuff and can't get it to lay properly, I take a few hand stitches to make it lay in the shape I want and then press it really well. I find a couple of tiny stitches do the trick and save a lot of frustration. Sometimes on the narrow stuff pressing alone isn't enough. I checked out your blog and you do very nice work.
Sheri |
| Lizabeth |
Posted - Apr 26 2009 : 08:49:24 AM
There is also a message board/forum on the martha pullen website. Lot's of great topics/tutorials to read there, too.
For my first lace shaping project, check out my blog. I couldn't get the ends of the lace to tuck under in a triangle very well, but I was working with 3/8 wide lace, so it was a bit challenging. any suggestions Sheri, would be appreciated!
http://www.handcraftsbyheather.com
http://handcraftsbyheather.com/blog/ |
| Sheep Mom 2 |
Posted - Apr 25 2009 : 10:48:52 PM
I'm glad I was some help. If you run into any snags e-mail me and I will try to help if I can. I have done a lot of heirloom sewing and have made several elaborate Christening gowns. I am looking forward to seeing the pictures when you are finished. One more thing - don't stretch your wet pre-washed lace when you pin it to dry or it will not lay flat & will give you trouble when you try to shape it. I just pin it to keep it flat while it drys. I give it a light pressing before I start pinning it in place and shaping it.
Sheri |
| mommatracy |
Posted - Apr 25 2009 : 3:57:02 PM
Thank you soooo muchy Sheri! Your directions make so much sense. Now I get it. When I finish it I will post a picture. Hopefully in a week to 10 days. I can only work when the sun is out and my bonus room is bright and can see so clearly.
Tracy
www.cottagebythebay.blogspot.com |
| Sheep Mom 2 |
Posted - Apr 25 2009 : 2:33:25 PM
Here is what you do: First soak lace and let it hang or lay out flat to dry so it will shrink. Place your fabric over a lace shaping board and using glass head pins, pin only along the headers of the lace and approx 1/4 to 1/8 inch apart pin the lace to the fabric with the pins just sticking through the lace into the board (vertically at a slight angle). Very gently pull a single thread to pull the lace up when going around the curves. This thread will break VERY easily. I use a pin and pick up just a single thread. Pin the shape as you pull it up. Once the lace is all pinned in place on both the outer and inner edges, spray with spray starch and press until dry. You press over the pins that is why you must have glass head pins - plastic melts and ruins your lace. Once the lace is completely dry, the easiest way to tack it before you sew it on the machine is to use small dots of wash away basting glue to hold the shaped lace in place. Another option is to baste by hand with wash away basting thread. Pre-shrinking both the lace and the fabric is really important or it can become very puckered when it is washed later. I usually lay my pre-washed lace flat on a towel and pin it in a few places to keep it flat while it drys. If you don't have a lace shaping board you can do this on your ironing board with the pattern under the fabric - just make sure (test first) that whatever you traced the pattern with won't transfer on to your fabric when pressing. Another piece of advice is never iron over blue or purple markers as it can become permanent on your finished piece. When removing the blue or purple marks from your fabric, use only clear water as detergents can sometimes set these marks as well. Always, always test on a scrap before using on your chosen fabric. I hope this will help. If you look up on Sew Beautiful Mag's web site I think there is a printed tutorial that you can download and print. Good luck. Take it slow and have lots of patience and you will have great results.
Sheri |
