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 Looking for a book on basic clothing...

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catscharm74 Posted - May 13 2008 : 08:13:44 AM
sewing. I can follow a basic pattern with basic sewing but I would like to learn more. I am trying to convert a pattern dress with a basic hem to a more flouncy hem and a revised neck line.

Heather

Yee-Haw, I am a cowgirl!!!

FARMGIRL #90
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tziporra Posted - May 14 2008 : 09:19:54 AM
For revising a neckline I recommend draping instead of working on the pattern. Use a square piece of muslin fabric on your dress form or a helper and snip away until you get the neckline you want. Then add seam allowances and voila! You have a pattern.

Alternatively, you can trace a neckine from a garment you already own easily and quickly.

Overlay the new neckline pattern over the original bodice and follow the new cutting lines.

Of course, if you are using facings to finish the neckline, you'll have to redraw your facing pattern as well.

As for adding flare to a dress, you'll need to slash and pivot the original pattern. Any book with a section on altering a sloper will have instructions on this fix. I like Vogue Sewing too, but I can't remember if this exact alteration is in there. You can get away with about 15 degrees of flare before hemming the skirt becomes a nightmare.

It may be better to buy a different style of dress pattern in order to get a truly flouncy skirt. For instance, a princess seam dress will have a fuller swishier skirt than a sheath style dress. And having a perfectly fitted princess seam dress pattern is indispensible to the sewing room, in my opinion :)

Another option is a dress with a waistline where you can attach just about any style of skirt.

Best,

Robin
suzyhomemaker Posted - May 14 2008 : 06:52:57 AM
I like the book Just Skirts for skirt patternmaking.

Although I have often wondered how good a patternmaker I could be, I don't fuss too much with patterns. My daughter is better at this than me.

I like deconstructing and making new items from existing clothing. This has been fun to do with my daughter. Good luck on your project. It's great to see sewing hitting such a revival.

Country girl in NE PA
catscharm74 Posted - May 13 2008 : 7:40:44 PM
Thanks for the ideas ladies!!!! Keep 'em coming!!!

Heather

Yee-Haw, I am a cowgirl!!!

FARMGIRL #90
graciegreeneyes Posted - May 13 2008 : 7:25:47 PM
Hey Heather- the book Sew U has some good tips on modifying patterns although it doesn't have anything on dresses specifically. You might want to check it out
Jana Posted - May 13 2008 : 2:50:55 PM
Heather,

I think more of us will be remaking clothes in the near future with the economy, cost of fuel to transport clothing to stores making prices higher, and the lack of anything interesting to work with in the fabric stores.

You may want to check out Amazon for books on making sewing patterns. I have a vintage 1970s Vogue Sewing Book that is my bible. Having had a seamstress for a mom gave me a leg up on altering and fitting clothing, but honestly, if you can just take a garment you like and examine how it is put together, you may be able to alter a pattern you have to make it similar.

Revising a neckline will be the easiest. Just trace the garment or pattern you do have on paper and fiddle with that until you get the neckline you like. You cut your facings to fit the neckline and that's pretty much it. Oh! And remember seam allowances. Try a sample garment in muslin first. Its cheap and easy to work with.

As for converting the fit of the skirt to something fuller, you have to remember that if you add fullness to the bottom, you will have to somehow make it work with the waistline. This is where a good guide can help you. You need to learn the principles of where your waist and hips are on that flat piece of paper. Do you want a gathered waist, or darts or gores, etc? Maybe cutting on the bias would give you a better fit.

There are software programs out there as well where you take your measurements, plug them in and design a pattern just for you. I've never used these and I've heard they are ok, but you still need to check the pattern for fit. Hope this gives you some ideas. Good luck!

Jana

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