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T O P I C    R E V I E W
Libbie Posted - Nov 21 2006 : 7:32:38 PM
I was looking through Debra Lynn Dadd's book, "Home Safe Home," and she gives these great recipes for interior and exterior whitewash/colored "whitewash" and milk paint. Have any of you farmgirls used these types of nontoxic alternatives? They seem like such a wonderful idea, and I was wondering if any of you had tried them. If you have - do they cover existing paint well? How did you prep the surface?

XOXO, Libbie

"Nothing is worth more than this day." - Goethe
16   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
MsCwick Posted - Dec 14 2006 : 11:47:23 AM
I'll have before and after pics tonight or tomorrow. It's super cute! Pink with white trim and the acent color is a rich blue-green for the entry door and front porch. I think they will be about done with it tomorrow morning. I'll be sure to let you know whenever I get the pics up!
Cristine
Libbie Posted - Dec 14 2006 : 08:21:12 AM
After hearing of the joys of stripping that ol' paint - I sure AM going to be sure I love the color before going all out with the paint! I don't have any photos of the inside of the house - but I'll take some and post them - I just love this place! I'll definitely check out the Sherwin-Williams paints, too - it's so wonderful to have you all here - you all have SO much knowledge and experience - I just KNEW I'd find great answers and information!

Cristine - I've been thinking of the bubble-gum pink cottage - it sounds SO cute! I am such a "neutral" person as far as colors go that I can look at every day and not get sort of stressed out by, but I admit, the thought of a happy pink cottage sounds delightful. Maybe I'll have to get just a *little* more adventurous with my colors...

XOXO, Libbie

"Nothing is worth more than this day." - Goethe
bramble Posted - Dec 13 2006 : 7:12:40 PM
I hear ya MaryAnn! That heat gun is a blessing and a curse, but I have used it with great results when I can ventilate the whole house.
I am no stranger to the old Red Devil paint stripper either! Thank goodness they don't sell that stuff anymore, the fumes could kill you before you ever got the wood stripped! I love old houses but not that part of them! Good luck Libbie whatever you pick, love it so you don't have to change it too soon!

with a happy heart
Horseyrider Posted - Dec 12 2006 : 07:10:39 AM
It definitely has an opaque finish, and may have been applied to raw wood because it sure is a part of it! Sanding or a carefully applied heat gun is all that moves it; but you have to be careful because the temperature which budges the paint is really close to that which scorches the wood! The top paint layers pop off relatively easy, though, and leave it nearly pristine.

I don't like the idea of sanding or using a heat gun on the layers above, though. Since there are multiple layers of very old paint, I'm concerned about gases and particles in the air. I'll just spend my whole life chipping away at it, and at least I'll live to see it finished when I get old. I did redo my livingroom completely, and used a heat gun some of the time. Man, four huge windows (two of which are from the floor to eight feet up!) and two doorways really kept me busy.
bramble Posted - Dec 12 2006 : 06:56:59 AM
MaryAnn- If your milk paint was applied to raw untreated wood it will probably never come off completely especially the pigment what ever it may be. I had a friend try to strip an old milk painted cupboard and it was impossible to remove so she sanded a little and repainted to freshen it up. I just wanted Libbie to know that it doesn't give the same texture/ finished surface as we are used to with painted furniture. I suspect some of your indestructibility has come from the oils and enamels in the later coats that have adhered to the original milk paint. I like it for some things, but not everything. I don't think it cleans up very well , but maybe that's just me. PA dutch milk paint might be different from milk paint in other areas too. Subtle differences, but the "recipes" could be altered geographically to what is (or was ) available. I know it was often called "poor man's paint" around here because of the opaque finish.

with a happy heart
MsCwick Posted - Dec 12 2006 : 06:27:11 AM
Is the paint that you think is lead based very thick? If it is, a heat gun will work wonders, and it's pretty fast too. If its pretty thin, like you can still see the grain, just use a gel stripper and let it set up for 5-10 mins and then use the scrapers. If it's intricate, like molding or little grooves, you can use a razor blade carefully and steel wool. If it's something like stair treads you could practically use the stripper, the the scraper then a soft wirebrush. Of course the wire brush will scratch them a bit, but they probably needed sanding afterwards anyways.
I'm on my way to work. Today I'm spraying a cute little cottage... PINK! Bubble gum pink with teal trim!! I'm so excited about this one!
Good luck!
Cristine
Horseyrider Posted - Dec 12 2006 : 04:46:19 AM
Gosh, with the chalky consistency you describe, Bramble, I'm not sure that it's like milk paint I know. My late 1860's farmhouse has a base paint on all the woodwork that I've been told is milk paint, and it's darn near indestructible. Over time, the top layers over it have popped off and gotten spotty, but this stuff takes blasting caps to move! (Well, not literally, but you know. ) One of the concerns I've had is not with the milk paint, but in removing the paint that's over it. With the age of this house, some of it is almost certainly lead based paint. I worry about sanding or heating it to remove it, so I've just been chipping away with putty knives, razor blades, and an old butter knife I have. In my hallway, I've gotten most of it off the stairwell. Fortunately, the turned rails of the bannister have never been painted, and still have the original finish. It's beautiful.

Once I get all that top paint off, I'm not so sure I'll repaint over it, either. I might just leave the original, excavated finish. You can't kill it.
MsCwick Posted - Dec 11 2006 : 9:33:16 PM
So what you will be painting will be previously painted sheetrock and wood trim, correct? I can look more into the Pro Green as far as cost. If you're looking for a long warranty, Duration line has a lifetime warranty, and SuperPaint has a 25 year warranty. Of course you'll pay a little more for these.

Do you have any pics of the inside? Me and my dad had an 1863 farmhouse and I just LOVED it! If you want any ideas or anything, let me know. I'll probably be going to Sherwin tomorrow, so I can ask about the Pro Green. I think it comes in two different grades, Pro Green 200(higher grade) and a 400(lower grade) version. The 200 will have more pigment in it and will probably go on smoother. The 400 may need two coats, but the 200 should only need one if you are an alright painter :)

Anyways, if you have any questions about the mumbo jumbo I just rattled off, let me know. But if there's anything I can help with as far as painting and staining advice, I would love to!!!

At Sherwin-Williams, we've pioneered the use of environmentally-preferable solutions in our business practices:

I pulled this off sherwin williams website:

We're developing coatings that use sustainable raw materials, like soy and sunflower oil.
We've initiated new techniques, such as washwater management techniques and cleaning solvent recovery methods, in our manufacturing process that produce less waste.
We've streamlined national distribution processes that conserve natural resources and use fuel, energy and raw materials as efficiently as possible.
We're promoting awareness of proper surface preparation and application processes to help lengthen the life span of coatings, thereby reducing the frequency of repaint-related emissions and waste.
We're helping our customers select the right products for their unique projects, and our twist-and-pour recyclable containers allow consumers to store more unused paint.
We've formulated many of our coatings to clean easily and to resist mildew, harmful bacteria and other microbes to improve indoor and outdoor environments.
Clare Posted - Dec 11 2006 : 9:17:18 PM
Here's a recent article from Mother Earth News that you may find helpful:
http://www.motherearthnews.com/DIY/2006-10-01/Make_Safe_Natural_Paint


Humor is the prelude to faith and Laughter is the beginning of prayer. -- Reinhold Niebuhr

http://farmstyle.blogspot.com

Libbie Posted - Dec 11 2006 : 8:15:37 PM
Hi, Cristine!

Thanks for asking - my farmhouse was built in the mid-1870's, and has been sort of "remodeled" throughout its existence, so on the first painting and fixing-up we covered what looked one heckuva lot like asbestos with 1/4" drywall and we made SURE to paint over anything that was painted before, for the lead issue - so those are the real ickiness I'm talking about. Also, when I repaint the interior and exterior of the home, I really want to use the most environmentally and people-friendly paint that I reasonably can - I'd love to know what you recommend!

You farmgirls absolutely rock!!! I'll bet that someone here has the answer to about any question a farmgirl could ask!

XOXO, Libbie

"Nothing is worth more than this day." - Goethe
MsCwick Posted - Dec 11 2006 : 6:14:53 PM
Anastasia,
If you're wondering about quality of Low VOC(volitile Organic Compound) basically low odor paints they are spectacular. Last winter we repainted 45 rooms in a nursing home, and we used Sherwin Williams Harmony paint. It goes on just as well as any of their other top-end paint. Although it is a little more expensive, it is well worth it for people with chemical allergies.

Libbie,
What kind of nasties are you talking about???
My husband and I have a painting business and I'm more than happy to chat with you about some options that are more friendly to the environment than traditional paints and stains.

I don't know how "green" we're talking here but Sherwin Williams is making something called Pro Green. I'm pretty sure that it is already out on the market. Check out this website! http://www.sherwin-williams.com/pro/green/

As a painting contractor, the quality of our work is the most important part of the equation that will keep us in business. We will only use Sherwin Williams products, so I'm sure you wouldn't be let down!! If you have any questions that you cant find answers to on the website, I can always ask the guys at the store.

I hope this helps!
bohemiangel Posted - Dec 11 2006 : 04:50:59 AM
Check out care2.com they have all types of info on natural things buying and making:)

"... to thine ownself be true."
Libbie Posted - Dec 10 2006 : 11:48:16 AM
Thanks! I was wondering about the finish - durability and all. I really think that the butcher's wax finish would be beautiful, but it could be a year-long (at least!) project!!! Have you all used these milk paints/whitewashes on furniture only, or on walls, too? In a couple of years, my house is going to need re-painting and I'm trying to figure out just what to do in order to move toward a more toxin-free home. With such an old home, I don't think it's possible to remove ALL of the nasties, but I know I can at least cover and forget about some of them!

XOXO, Libbie

"Nothing is worth more than this day." - Goethe
bramble Posted - Dec 08 2006 : 09:52:45 AM
Libbie- I keep meaning to respond to this. I have used the Old Village milk paint with good success and there is very little smell.
My one complaint is that it is a chalky, dry finish when done, so I usually end up doing something else to it as a sealant. If I want dull finish, I rub varathane into it so there is no gloss. If I want a little glow, I use very fine steel wool after painting, brush well and rub in many coats of butcher's wax. Looks good when done , but a pain. I would prefer a low odor non toxic paint if available. There are also some nice low odor gel stains out there now you can use alone or on top of a stained or painted finish. I will see what else I've used and let you know.

with a happy heart
GRITSgal Posted - Dec 08 2006 : 05:21:44 AM
yes, i have tried whitewash on my furnitures and they are wonderful.. I painted like 2 times to get that right look on the furniture but it will be different story on the fences or anything else outdoors. I love the wooden look thru the white paint. it left my home in whim style! :)
Anastasia Posted - Nov 22 2006 : 09:51:12 AM
I'd be curious about how well these work. I have seen non-toxic, no-fume, health-friendly paint advertised at the stores lately but it's always nice to have an option.

Cheers,
Anastasia :)

"Speciality is for insects." -Robert Heinlen

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