| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| ashcordes |
Posted - Feb 19 2007 : 09:14:56 AM
Anyone know what the approximate cost is to feed one horse, let's say per month? Looking to board a horse two houses down from us and wondering what the cost is for feed nowadays.
Thanks! |
| 14 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Horseyrider |
Posted - Feb 22 2007 : 06:39:19 AM
Aww, thanks Michele! You made my day!  |
| westernhorse51 |
Posted - Feb 21 2007 : 6:49:43 PM
Mary Ann, you are one farmgirl I wish I lived close too. Love your horse knowledge & the way you give it!
she selects wool and flax and works with eager hands Prov.31:13 |
| goneriding |
Posted - Feb 21 2007 : 6:28:41 PM
Lots of good advice here.
As for floating, I've never had much luck with that. I've had a couple of horses who dropped their feed and we tried floating. Nothing changed, the horses were just sloppy eaters!! I finally learned to put a bucket below where one horse held her head while chewing and 'recycled' the dropped oats in her main bucket.
It depends on whether they are in sandy areas, genetics and what's being fed mainly. Also, tho, a lot of horses are living a lot longer nowadays, which in wild probably wouldn't happen, and so keeping an eyeball on their teeth is a good idea.
As for trims and shoeing and resets, most of the time, my horses are barefoot. The only time I've shod is if we are going to the show ring (a shod hoof looks much better than a bare hoof) or there is a hoof problem or being used in uber rocky ground. But to shoe just to shoe? No, I don't do that. I have also shod only on the front and left the back hoofies barefoot. Also, if it is a showhorse, I shod for spring, summer and fall and pulled the shoes in the winter to let the hoof get back to 'normal'. Very seldom have I ever had a horse with major hoof problems.
Happy Trails ;-)
Don't sweat the small stuff... |
| ashcordes |
Posted - Feb 21 2007 : 06:28:22 AM
Thanks for all your great advice guys....Right now I'm riding a horse that is boarded at a friend's house....the owner never visits, doesn't want anything to do with her...just writes the checks for her boarding and hoof and mouth, and vet care. But a place just opened up down the road from me that I could board at and I was thinking of getting a rescue horse so I could have a horse all my own, and the horse I've been "borrowing" has some temperament issues that I'm not too happy with as I'm trying to get my one year old familiarized with horses and not sure I trust her with my babe.
I'm going to post another topic on Resuce Horses to get ya'll's opinions on that, thanks again! |
| Horseyrider |
Posted - Feb 19 2007 : 4:05:18 PM
You have a very valid reason to suggest it. I start my young horses by having the vet take a look at occlusion (how they meet) as yearlings. As two year olds, or when they begin to carry a bit, you need to start. Wolf teeth are of course removed because these tiny teeth rest in front of the first premolars and are sensitive when they're hit by a bit. But young horses also shed caps, or baby teeth, and some have a hard time getting them to go. Also, the first premolars are often sort of rolled back by the dentist, creating a comfortable spot called a "bit seat," which makes it more comfortable for a young horse to carry a snaffle. Horses continue to have new teeth emerge and shed baby teeth into the fifth year. The canines come into males (and a rare female or two) at four and a half.
Horses can have many of the same dental afflictions as we do. While they tend to not get cavities like we do because their teeth grow and wear, they can have broken teeth that can cause pain and infection. They can have a tall one opposite of a broken one that can cause them to have a locking sort of motion to chewing. They can develop large and painful hooks at the rear of the mouth that makes them gape at the bit when asked to go in a frame. And they can get big hooks at the front, too. Horses don't always shed all their caps when they should; they can remain behind, have food particles trapped underneath, and cause pain and infection. Horses try to chew on the opposite side of things like these, and it works for awhile; but when the good side wears down too much, they can become very uncomfortable. Uneven wear can cause a condition called wave mouth, where the arcades of teeth that should be smooth ramps be like a roller coaster. Horses like this get TMJ, or temporal mandibular jaw syndrome, which is a painful matrix of muscle spasms that the humans you know that get it will tell you is extremely painful.
Dropping food and inability to put on weight are classic signs, as are rolling wads of hay and spitting it. Check the poop. If you're seeing undigested fiber strands greater than a quarter inch in length, he can't chew efficiently. It makes no economic sense to avoid floating, because you're wasting tons of money in feed that can't be utilized. It's just going through.
Horses also have varying qualities of mouths, just like people. With horses, some have a jaw conformation and chewing motion combined with high quality enamel and they do great for many, many years. Others aren't so fortunate. But we never think to include quality of teeth when we choose breeding prospects, do we? We select for color, size, conformation, speed, temperament, and a host of other things; but just about never teeth.
I personally won't pay for a float where the dentist or vet uses just hand floats. I want a guy that's trained to use motorized Dremel tools like a human dentist uses. This is a huge difference in the quality of the float; hand floats cannot get the hooks in back.
Totally aside, horses can go off feed and scatter hay when their teeth are bad (they're looking for the tenderer parts) or they may be looking for parts such as leaves in alfalfa which are higher in calcium. That would tend to make me suspect ulcers, as calcium buffers stomach acids.
But I'd definitely address the teeth first.
You were right to suggest it. It can make a huge difference in feed conversion and performance. |
| Love-in-a-Mist |
Posted - Feb 19 2007 : 3:23:05 PM
All right, question for you Mary Ann. You mentioned floating. My brother-in-law and sister-in-law have a horse that seemed to be having problems eating his hay. He scattered it around alot and most of it ended up outside his stall. And he was having a hard time putting on weight. I mentioned getting his teeth checked. And I was told that only older horses need their teeth floated and he has always done that with his hay. He's 9 yrs old. They wouldn't listen to me even if he did need them done, but I was just wondering if I had a valid suggestion? I am not sure when you need to start doing it, except to have wolf teeth removed when they are young.
Farmgirl and mother of 2
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| Horseyrider |
Posted - Feb 19 2007 : 3:02:01 PM
Ashley, I'm going to think that the cost of hay in your area is similar to what it is in mine, since we're in the same region. Here you can get hay out of the field and haul it yourself if you want. That's the cheapest. You can have it delivered, or delivered and stacked. The labor makes it cost more. Here you're looking at $2.50-4.00 per bale. I personally prefer to feed small squares. Round bales are really designed for cattle and their ruminant type digestive systems; horses have a cecum but lack the ability to deal with some tougher types of fiber and molds. Round bales can easily mold out in a pen.
The rule of thumb is you need 2-2.5% of the horse's weight in feed each day. So a 1000 pound horse would need 20-25# per day in their total ration. That would mean approximately half a small square per horse per day. Then you multiply times how many days per calendar year you anticipate needing to feed hay. If you need to feed hay all but two months of the year, then you take about 300 days times .5 bales and you get about 150 bales.
More fibrous, lighter bales will take more. Heavier leafier bales will take less. The latter is more digestible and palatable.
Then you have grain. Many horses who are offered top quality hay need no grain for additional calories, and I generally advise pleasure horse owner to not feed it. Grain is a concentrated source of carbohydrates, and can make an otherwise good natured horse anxious, fractious and overly energetic. If you like to feed it to give them a treat or something to do, there are complete rations out there (such as Kent's Ruff and Ready) or lower carb/higher fat offerings (Purina Strategy or Nutrena Safe Choice). Grain can also alter the pH of the gut, and can actually induce ulcers. Horses develop ulcers far more often than people do. I don't know your management skill level, so I'd tell you to avoid all grains, including oats, corn, and barley.
The bagged feeds mentioned above run from about $8-11 a 50# bag.
Someone mentioned vetting and farriery. This is an absolute must. I have my horses reset every six weeks, year round. Not all horses need to be shod, but many do; and you can't cut corners on this if they need shoes. A trim in my area runs around $30, and a set of shoes around $80. Younger farriers trying to build a book may charge less, and some track farriers or specialty corrective shoeing guys charge more. Don't economize on your farrier very much; there's an old saying, "No foot, no horse." A bad farrier can leave a foot unbalanced and quickly make them lame. It's a foolish economy. Most all farriers expect payment at the time of service.
Worming should be done every six to eight weeks, too. A tube of ivermectin type wormer can be purchased online for about $5. These are generally very safe and have a low toxicity.
Either ask around for basic vet charges, or call the clinic closest to you that does large animal field work. My vet is an awesome guy, and he charges $56 for the farm call. That's just to get him to drive in my driveway. Anything else on top of that is extra. Most vets will want your money at the time of service if you're a new client, but as you develop a relationship they'll be happy with billing you.
You'll also need quality tack and equipment. Saddles absolutely must fit right; you can turn a nice family horse into a rearing snorting bucking ball of pain with a saddle that doesn't fit. It's a lot like a pair of shoes; it doesn't matter if your shoes are very expensive or Walmart specials if they don't fit. And also like shoes, if you have a saddle that's jabbing them you can't just add another pad; that's like having a pair of shoes that're too small and putting on a pair of thick socks to ease the pinch.
Horses also need dentistry once a year minimum, and most do best on twice a year, just like people. Their teeth continue to emerge from the jaw through their lifetimes, and develop sharp points as they wear down. Sometimes these points get razor sharp. It can cause head tossing, refusals to go forward, rooting at the bit, going above the bit, etc. The process of taking off these sharp points is called floating. A quality float from a skilled person (either a vet that has additional training or an equine dentist with a vet in attendance to administer sedation) runs around $100 and up, depending on the amount of work that needs to be done.
Those are just a few of the expenses. There are also (if needed) trainers, chiropractors, hauling, entry fees, blankets, saddle club dues, breed association dues, the educational opportunities in books, magazines, clinics, and symposiums, additional insurance (DON'T go without this), etc. It probably won't surprise you if I tell you that my hubby says horses are "a black hole for money." But it's one of the most rewarding things I've ever been involved in.
I hope this helps! |
| Tracey |
Posted - Feb 19 2007 : 2:35:55 PM
What kind of horse? Easy keeper means differen things to different people. I've got two mustangs. The first one gets local grass hay only and thinks she's feasting. The other gets grass hay and three lbs of grain; hopefully someday she'll get rid of the parasite infestation and won't need so much grain.
If you really want to know what it will cost, start calling around for feed costs in your area. Here, a bale of timothy is $13 bale; the other side of the state you can get alfalfa for $3-4 bale, here it's three times that. I can buy local grass hay for $2.50 bale out of my friend's barn; from the feed store it's $6.
Call around for farrier costs; they'll all charge something different. Get references; lots of them, not just one or two. Our neighbor used to use a guy that would put the shoes on crooked, the mare was always lame for a week afterwards. Would the neighbor ever switch? Nope, just kept recommending this guy. I paid $30 for a trim last time...heck of a lot of money, but well worth it for the young horse that I didn't want screwed up or scared.
Then the vet...yikes! What's a farm call in your area? Build from that, and plan a couple visits a year into your budget (then pray you never need them!)
Best thing for you to do would be check in your area, not here, to get a good, accurate idea of actual costs. 
Visit Quiet Storm, our adopted Mustang! http://wildaboutquietstorm.com
http://carpentercreek.blogspot.com http://mustangdiaries.blogspot.com http://marbletownangels.blogspot.com
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| horse |
Posted - Feb 19 2007 : 1:53:23 PM
You are gonna have to decide what kind of grain you are going to feed. I feed Dass Compete and it cost me 12.00 for a 50lb bag then the other horses get 12% alfa oat pellets which is 4.50 a 50lb bag. Just to feed my barrel horse in one week it cost me and this including the hay, 18.00. I have to add suplements to her feed . I have all of my horses shod every 5 wks and it cost me 180.00 and then I have to worm them so it runs me 60.00 for just that. As far as vet bill goes, i have 2 cousins who are vets so that doesn't cost anything unless like what I just went through with my barrel horse , where I had to take her to Birmingham, that cost was way up there.
Laura
www.2lmzfarms.blogspot.com
3barrels,2hearts,1passion |
| Love-in-a-Mist |
Posted - Feb 19 2007 : 12:09:35 PM
We have a summer pasture, but for hay and grain from about
October through May it costs me about $200. That is with grain around $10.00 for 50lbs. And a mixture of alfalfa and grass hay. I don't grain the whole time either. Just when they need it.
If you buy hay from a feed store it will be alot more than that. Definitly prepare and buy from farmers before winter comes. Trimming is $25 every other month sometimes I can skip one. $50 for shoes. Worming around $50 a year, depends.
I can't help with vet costs. My vet's a neighbor and we trade favors.
Farmgirl and mother of 2
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| ashcordes |
Posted - Feb 19 2007 : 10:22:42 AM
I will be responsible for all care. |
| ponyexpress |
Posted - Feb 19 2007 : 10:15:45 AM
If you are considering the costs of ownership, seriously consider the vet costs and regular hoof care in addition to the feed bills. Even with an easy keeper in good health and condition, the care of a horse can be expensive. For me, buying the animal was the least costly part of the deal!
Will your board include any feed at all? Is this an actual boarding facility or a place where the horse will live and you will provide all the care?
I've tried to find a suitable exercise video for women my age...but they haven't made one called "Buns of Putty" |
| ashcordes |
Posted - Feb 19 2007 : 09:44:58 AM
We have hard winters so they would need extra hay...easy keeper though, I'm just looking for a rough estimate.
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| Marybeth |
Posted - Feb 19 2007 : 09:40:04 AM
Good question. Is the horse on pasture or in a stall. We have grass in our pastures in the winter for the horses to graze on. Do you use you horse for any events or just occasional riding. that would mean a different ration of grains. We figure one ton of hay a horse a year. But we don't have harsh winters. Is your horse an easy keeper or does it need extras? Best to ask someone in your area. MB
www.strawberryhillsfarm.blogspot.com
www.day4plus.blogspot.com
"Life may not be the party we hoped for...but while we are here we might as well dance!" |
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