| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| santa_gertrudis_gal |
Posted - Jun 01 2006 : 08:05:34 AM
I finally got around to reading subjects on rabbits. Our rabbits are a very important part of DD and my life. After ten years our realization of our dream is coming true to be competitive on the national level. You can see our National wins on our website.
http://www.watkinsbunnybarn.homestead.com
This year the ARBA National Convention and Show will be held in Fort Worth, TX and in 2007 the ARBA National Convention and Show will be held in Grand Rapids, Michigan. So if any farm gals want to see 20,000 plus rabbits and approx. 2000 cavies (aka guniea pigs) these shows are it. Not to mention being able to purchase anything related to rabbits it's there.
Reading the other postings on rabbits I know there were several questions on where to purchase certain breeds of rabbits. I think Jenny wanted to know where to find Angoras. Quite a number of farm gals have Angoras. So here's the website for The National Angora Rabbit Breeders Club. There is a link to find breeders.
http://www.narbc.org/
I encourage everyone who loves the English Angora to visit Betty Chu's site. She has the best English in the nation. Her rabbits are extremely pricey too. Yet seeing her Angora's is a treat. Another tidbit of information for those farm gal's who love Angora's is on the Satin Angora. This is an extremely rare breed and very much in danger of being dropped from the ARBA standard. I've heard rumors only there are only about 11-12 active show breeders in the US. If you'd like to help save this breed you can probably find breeders on the NARBC site.
Lots of questions asked on caging, and a few problems along the way. Several gals have extensive experience like I do and any of us would be willing to help. Me included. My email is listed so don't hesitate to write or go to my website and give me a call.
Another great piece of advice to first time rabbit folks is to become a member of ARBA (American Rabbit Breeders Assoc.).
http://www.arba.net
Even if just for one year. With your membership you get the ARBA Guidebook. There is a wealth of information in the Guidebook, especially on illness and disease. The guidebook is update about every 5-7 years. Also you get the bi-monthy subscription to Domestic Rabbits which also contains medical info on rabbits. All this for $15.00 adult and $8.00 for youth membership. You can even make a call to get the membership instead of sending it in, easy.
The other really neat thing about the ARBA website is the listing of rabbit shows. If your thinking about adding rabbits to the farm for what ever the reason (garden fertilizer, meat or wool) the place to decide on which breed you want is a show. With 48 recognized breeds and several in development you'll find one to love. They come in all shapes and sizes with different types of fur. A show is also a great place to find breeders of the breed your looking for. My suggestion is get in touch with the show secretary listed to see if the breeders of the breed listed usually come to that show. Example in point, Texas shows don't usually have Angora Breeders show. Very few Angora breeders in the state due to our heat.
I have to run to work, so I'll end this...for now.
I want to use this thread to introduce everyone to the wonderful world  of rabbits so I promise more posts.
Kim
Heaven is a day at the ranch with my Santa Gertrudis! |
| 22 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| beckels |
Posted - Nov 19 2006 : 3:27:34 PM
Did any farm girls go to the rabbit convention in Texas this past month?? It is the first time I didnt go in many years. So I need to save so I can go to Michigan in 2007.
Becky |
| santa_gertrudis_gal |
Posted - Aug 18 2006 : 11:06:08 AM
Wild Rabbits
Wild Rabbits and Domestic Rabbits across the world have recently been reclassified genetically. They are no longer Rodents but Lagomorphs. They belong to the Order Lagomorpha. This includes pikas, rabbits and hares. Our domestic rabbits including the Full Arch Breeds are all rabbits. Rabbits are born using the term, altricial, meaning hairless and helpless. Biologists call them kittens, in the show world they are called kits. Hares and pikas are born, precocial: fully haired, eyes opened and ready to go. Ok, probably more then you want to know.
Even my DD as a junior in Pre AP Biology II found a mistake in her Biology book, and brought it to the attention of her teacher. It listed rabbits as a Rodent. Her teacher smiled and said they were using the older 6th edition. Her fellow students looked at her with disbelief. Last year as a freshman at A&M they had the newer 7th edition in which there was the correction.
Since baby rabbits, wild or domestic are born altricial you won't see a wild rabbit until the earliest at ten days. Burrows are generally deep enough if the doe leaves the nest upon finishing nursing the kit will fall off the teet and make his/her way back to the nest. Like domestic rabbits a doe builds a nest of plant matter and fur. Kits are responsible for nest maintenance and not the doe. With domestic rabbits it isn't unusual to find a kit on the wire outside the nest box. It's why during the winter I check the nest cages starting at 6:00am for babies who have made the trip out of the nest while still attached to the teet.
Our cottontails rarely reach more then 6 lbs. So a youngster closely resembles the size of a mini rex at the same age until about 4 months. A two week old cottontail kitten will be about 2-3 ounces in size. At four months they are about 3-4 lbs.
The Lagomorph is eaten by everything. They are the fodder of the carnivores and omnivores as plants are to the herbivores. A pair of cottontails are responsible for 480 offspring and decendants in a single year. With this in mind you can see why the Lagomorphs feed our wildlife population.
In the ten years we have had rabbits we have raised three cottontail kittens and returned them to the wild. In each case they were three to four weeks when they were either given to us or we found one. There is a misconception amoung what I call tree huggers about a doe and her kits. If you find the two week old, the doe will not lead the baby back to the nest. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise. Once that baby ventures from the nest, if it doesn't find it's own way back, the doe doesn't go looking for the lost one. Does whether domestic or wild will wean the babies between four and six weeks.
Raising a wild rabbit to return to the wild. We raised them just as we would our rabbits with one exception. We touch them long enough to get them in the cage and then to release them. We do not touch them in between. We make no attempt to socialize the rabbit. They are released in a brush covered area at 3 1/2 to 4 months of age. When released they are released in an area so if they last long enough to breed, they will add genetic divesity to the population. At two months we begin to feed them a variety of forage they would normally eat in the wild. Cottontails actually prefer to eat this forage. We have never raised a jack rabbit.
Lorij, you probably have discovered why it was so easy to domesticate the rabbit. They are easily raised to be a pet if found between two to three weeks of age. My suggestion would be a petting zoo, for this little one. He would spend less time caged.
Domestic rabbits unlike their wild cousins generally die from hunger in the wild. Yet we know that they are capable of surviving in the wild. As man introduced rabbits to areas where they were not indigenous to the area, feral populations developed. We have even had some of our rabbits escape, to not be found again. One such doe was a califorian marked American Sable (a variety not recognized to be shown). She lived underneath our feed barn for about six months, wild as can be. She even made it back one day into the barn, and promptly escaped our attempts to catch her. She didn't mind humans as long as they were at least 12 feet from her. Very quickly offspring of a domestic rabbit will take on the coloring of the wild rabbit. This is because a wild rabbit is of the Agouti color pattern. This is the dominant color pattern in rabbits.
Wild rabbits and jack rabbits are remarkably resilient. Two stories of cottontails I want to share with you while I worked as a Livestock Supervisor for the Texas Prison System.
Riding to a water trough to water our horses I heard the tell tale scream of a rabbit. It came form underneath a feed trough we had at one of our five stock pens. I had an inmate move the trough, to find a rat snake had hold of about a three month old cottontail. It so startled the snake he released his hold and off the fortunate cottontail ran. Then to our surprise the snake quickly gained his composure and soon had a rat in his embrace. We then quickly moved away very in awe of the whole experience. I prefered the rat to have his demise.
The second was how I came about our third cottontail we raised. We were moving a herd into a different stock pen then the one above. Once again I heard the tell tale scream. This time I knew it was a baby. I had the inmates move on ahead of me as I got off my gelding and search. I found a three-four week old bleeding from the ear. I didn't think the kit would make it. I figured it would be much nicer to have it die in my shirt pocket since it was about 45 degrees that morning. At lunch time this baby was still alive. I took him home, placed him in a shoe box, sitting on a heating pad on low. The next morning he was sitting up looking at me. Another 24 hours in the house and out to his cage in the rabbit barn. He turned out to be a she as I checked her the day I released her.
As for our ranch. We have some cottontails but lots of jack rabbits. And these jack rabbits are huge and fat fat. They probably weigh in at around 10-12 lbs. These jack rabbits also stand about 18 inches when sitting at alert. They are unlike the jack rabbits of West Texas. Larger with different coloration. They have amazed me with their ability to blend into their environment. They look very silver grey as they are running away from you. DH and I were driving down an easement on the south side of our property. Although this gravel road is on our property it is actually enclosed by fence on our neighbors property. DH stopped about half way down, and asked me to look over at a mesquite tree close to the ground. DH, "Is that a branch or animal?" I said, "I'm not sure, get out of the truck if you want and see." Four steps towards that mesquite, and up jumped a jack rabbit. His silver gray back bounding through the mesquite. He was positioned with his back end against the trunk and at an angel with ears flat that made him look like a branch with the more brown along his sides. We really enjoyed his/her fooling us.
If your interested in more fun facts on our domestic rabbits' wild cousins, please visit this article written by Susan Lumpkin, editor of the National ZooGoer. I found it very interesting and entertaining.
http://nationalzoo.si.edu/Publications/ZooGoer/2000/4/arabbittale.cfm
Lorij, enjoy your cottontail! They are fun to watch.
Kim
Heaven is a day at the ranch with my Santa Gertrudis! |
| santa_gertrudis_gal |
Posted - Aug 18 2006 : 08:30:35 AM
Lorij,
New topic! Wild Rabbits!
Kim
Heaven is a day at the ranch with my Santa Gertrudis! |
| santa_gertrudis_gal |
Posted - Aug 13 2006 : 11:30:46 AM
The Perfect Show Rabbit
The perfect show rabbit has to do with genetics. Conformation, Quality of Fur, Conditioning, and Temperment all must be in consideration to reach the perfect show rabbit. You can breed two Best In Show winners and get dog meat. Thus the challenge and for the die hard showman/woman it becomes a obsession as it has in both my daughter an myself.
We dove in head first, learned some things the hard way. So I'll pass some tips on to the newbie.
1) Buy a trio from a reputable breeder.
2) Continue to buy from that breeder or one he/she recommends that will complement the original lines. A reputable breeder will be honest in this area.
3) Spend the first two years asking a variety of breeders to evaluate your rabbits. Ask them to not give you the "sugar coated" version. Then don't be upset when they tear the rabbit to pieces. If you hear two or three opinions on "this won't make a show rabbit", and a couple of judges don't place it well, cull it. This teaches you how to cull.
4) Once you need an outcross go to a different breeder with different lines. By this time you will know which breeder will complement your lines. Usually this is a buck.
5) Even if you here others talk about what they paid for a rabbit in the showroom, don't do it yourself and don't ask. Many times breeders trade rabbits back and forth or are given a rabbit. Honor what a breeder asks of you if they lend you a rabbit. We currently have a buck on loan to us. The stipulation is we must give her first choice of each litter we get from him. He has been a tough buck to add his genetics in our herd. Either the litter is a diaster, or we will get one good rabbit. Our friend has been kind to let us keep the one good rabbit and get one litter out of it before she is given the rabbit. He goes home in September as we are happy with his use.
6) Work behind the table as either a ramrod or comment taker. All judges need help. Work with your breed first, if your a parent and your child is showing youth, then work on the open side. Later you can give a day to this. You will learn faster about rabbits doing this then at any other time. This show season if DD is at a show she will be on her own showing the rabbits. I've decided to start working on my registars license. I need to have a large variety of judges helping me to understand the ins and outs of all breeds. I've even been known to work behind the table when my daughter is showing her rabbits. If you are going to do this make sure your child knows he/she can not approach you unless it is a nessacary show question. A child truly doesn't understand this until they are about 12.
7) Choosing to show your rabbits and your child shows her/his rabbits. I chose not to. I just felt is was better for me politically. I also chose to not show as the open breeders would be more willing to help my daughter without me competing in the same breed. As a result the friendships we have developed over the last 10 years have propelled us into accepted members of the Open Division. I urge parents if they want to show, do a different breed. DD was unable to make several shows last fall due to her college demands, she was still showing as an youth. So her rabbits were entered, and her youth friends got them on the table for me. There was no animosity from other youth or parents because DD was the oldest and most respected youth in Mini Rex in the state. She had paid her dues. Above all, stay out of the fray some parents will cause. You know the type, one who shows through their children or always thinks their child should have won.
8) Don't say anything bad about a judge no matter how much you dislike her/him. It eventually gets back to them (ALWAYS).
9) Work on your conformation and conditioning first then move towards the perfect fur.
Ok, on to the perfect rabbit....
You have that gorgeous rabbit with great conformation. This happened genetically. You've been working with buck/doe at home. Now to get that awesome condition and awesome fur on the rabbit. First hopefully the parents were known for their fur and condition. This makes your job easier.
Conditioning
Condition comes through feeding a quality feed and making sure he is in an environment that will help him keep his/her condition. A nervous rabbit or over active rabbit won't get that condition no matter what the genes say. Conditioning mixes also help with putting the finishing touch on the rabbit. There are alot of ideas on conditioning mixes, but the one I use has worked better then any other I have used. We have been using this mix for the last four years, so now it has become part of the equation in our genetics. If a rabbit can't hold his condition on the mix or improve it, then we cull the rabbit. Temperture can also affect condition. The hotter it gets the rabbit is less likely to hold a show conditon.
Fur
Fur is a tough thing. Genes play a huge roll. We were told, and it is the honest truth, see number 9 above. Once we did that, getting a top notch fur became easy. There are certain tricks that give you great fur or wool. If you ask me about the wooled breeds and how to get the perfect wool, I will look at you with a big: "I DON'T KNOW!" The wool breeds are: Lionhead, Jersey Wooly, English Angora, French Angora, Giant Angora, and Satin Angora. The Lionhead is currently not a recognized breed in this country. It is currently being presented to become a recognized breed. We have good friends who work with the Satins and Mini Satins and they would be able to tell you how to get their fur. From what I know it is similiar to the Rex, Mini Rex, and the Velveteen Lop. Velveteen Lop is not currently a recognized breed. For normal furred rabbits and rex breeds I do know.
Remember I said temperature affects color. For the southern states we really cringe as the temps go above 85. The heat alone can damage a coat even if you are doing everything possible through your breeding and conditioning. Rabbit color actually gets rather hideous with some varieties. Chocolate rabbits turn orange, etc. Californians can loose there black points so they look like New Zealand Whites. So what to do... Now enter humidity. With the rex breeds high humidity can crinkle the coat. So one must balance the humidity with the temperature. If you live in an area with low humidity, then a water cooler will work in the barn. If you live where I do, then water coolers can be a diaster unless you know how to build the barn to get rid of the excess humidity. We use air conditioning in the show barn. In the barn we keep a plastic coffee can 1/4-1/2 full of water to help balance the humidity. If we don't the coats get to brittle and dry.
Fur and Light. Light can damage color on fur. I know your thinking, 'yeah right'. Even in air conditioning we have had rabbits turn color. So we keep the rabbits in low light 24/7. Our showbarn is 8x6 and we use rope lights. Before we had the barn, we kept our best three rabbits in the house. Ouch, first season they turned ugly colors. Second season the blinds were closed and light in the room always turned off when we left. Beautiful color and fur.
Lots to consider when breeding for the perfect rabbit. It was a joy this am to listen to DD as she talked about one of her ARBA Convention hopefuls who is a Chocolate Mini Rex. She says this buck has the perfect body. Now if he will not get his Dad's fur. Last year at Convention Dad had the best body in the variety. He placed 2nd in his class, because of the fur. By the distribution of the points in the Mini Rex breed it was a correct placing. He was awesome.....but he inherited his father's fur, but not quite as bad. He had what is called rough rex fur, caused by too many guard hairs that are too long. His body and color was so great we kept him, knowing how to work the rough fur gene out. Just one of the ups and downs of getting to that perfect rabbit.
The Show Pose
Described in detail with pictures for particulars on some breeds in the Standard of Perfection. Work with your juniors before the first show. It's amazing how quickly a rabbit learns what you are asking of it. To learn the correct pose for any breed, check with a breeder. The dream show rabbit and one every showman/woman loves to see on the table is one that is taken out of the coup by the judge. Before your eyes they seemingly go straight into their pose and hold it for what seems forever. In the end the perfect show rabbit. If a judge is having a hard time choosing between two rabbits, it so important for the rabbit to be able to hold that pose for at least 30-45 seconds. The one who does it for 3-4 minutes is so awesome. It can mean the edge on winning at any level. Those that naturally go to pose and those who can also hold it are wonderful. We've had three or four of those. We even had one doe who was a consistent Breed winner. Towards the end of her show career it wasn't unusual for her to be compared to another. When she was taken out of the coop for comparison and not "stacked" right away then she would put herself in her show pose. I know that doe loved to win, she knew when she won breed. She doesn't like being a mommy, but begrugdingly does that duty. She still looks with longing at DD when we arrive in the barn to load the rabbits going to a show. One morning I did the loading and as Beauty looked at me, I gave her her wish. I loaded her. Beautiful fur, flabby condition of a brood doe....and she still won her variety but not breed. She wasn't very happy, but DD managed to love her just as if she had won Breed. For this doe it was little consilation. Still no comparison for her, she no longer stands on her hind legs to go. Beauty just looks on remembering her wins and early morning rides to shows. Beauty wasn't always the perfect show rabbit for the judge, her first show she won Variety, and was hard to handle. She didn't win Variety again until she became a senior. Then the show after that she started to win Breed and was only defeated twice after her first Breed win. In both cases it was a Castor doe that beat her, and the judge would remark, "My best two rabbits on the table today are the does." The Best Opposite Buck both days, was third best. We always remind Beauty she is still the PERFECT SHOW RABBIT! She loves to sit for both of us in her PERFECT SHOW POSE and does it all herself.
Happy showing to everyone!
Kim
Heaven is a day at the ranch with my Santa Gertrudis! |
| Bluewrenn |
Posted - Aug 10 2006 : 7:33:35 PM
Wow! I used to show Aussies at the dog shows but this is way more complicated!!! Well, some of it sounds familiar and it sure sounds like fun... (Showing the Aussies was a blast!)
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| santa_gertrudis_gal |
Posted - Aug 10 2006 : 09:25:28 AM
Kay,
Hollands are wonderful rabbits. When my daughter decided to get American Sables she got rid of her Hollands and New Zealands. We usually keep one around as a pet. They are truly people oriented bunnies and oh so cute. They make wonderful pets. For show they are a challenging breed to work with. We have been so into our Mini Rex we didn't alot enough cage space for this wonderful breed. If there is the chance your daughter wants to show them then you can't have but one breed if you limit yourself to 20-25 holes (cages). The reason for this is eventually you need three bucks and six does of which two will be what in Texas we call dumbo does. Dumbo does are big Hollands ranging from 4.5 - 5 lbs. The Holland Standard has a minimum weight of 2 lbs and maximum of 4 lbs. Hollands have a tendancy to loose size over several generations. As they loose size those rabbits tend to have other problems associated with being a dwarf rabbit. We also found the Hollands because of being a normal furred rabbit to have more problems with wool block when compared to the Mini Rex. Our Cals and Sables have the same tendancy so it isn't an exclusive Holland problem. Like I said previously, "there is a special breed for everyone." No matter what breed one chooses, they are a great breed.
My next post is a show breeding program. So stay tuned! It may take me up to three weeks for this as I'm about to spend most of the next two weeks with my daughter in College Station to help her sorority through Formal Recruitment.
Kim
Heaven is a day at the ranch with my Santa Gertrudis! |
| therusticcottage |
Posted - Aug 08 2006 : 11:17:21 PM
Kim -- thank you so much for all the info! And also thank you for your email. Stephanie got home tonight and I will show it to her tomorrow. What are your feelings on Holland Lops? We have looked at those breeds too.
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Read my ramblings at http://rusticcottage.blogspot.com/ |
| santa_gertrudis_gal |
Posted - Aug 08 2006 : 11:24:06 AM
Showing Rabbits
Somewhere I have a desire to breed the perfect animal. I've bred Arabians and love having foals. It's just so darn expensive. I prefer now to have a pasture where I can just love my horses and ride. Every horse I bred became a champion in some discipline. For the last ten years my daughter and I have been trying to breed the perfect Chocolate Mini Rex Rabbit. It is an obsession. It's harder to get that Champion, BOB, or BIS with a rabbit. Our lines are into their sixth generation. We have since added American Sables to our desire of producing the perfect rabbit. They are truly a much harder breed to accomplish the perfect rabbit for a number of reasons. Along with the rabbits I look forward to some day breeding a National Champion Santa Gertrudis.
Rabbit Shows are the conformation for the breeder they are moving forward in their breeding program. From week to week, different judges, the same rabbit will place differently. The joy is when you produce a rabbit that consistently wins week after week under a variety of judges.
I find the world of showing rabbits to be conducive to friendships, competition, and a world of just plain fun. For youth it is a place where life long friendships are made, and support from adults that is like no other species you can show. There is far less politics within the rabbit show world then any other species I've been involved in showing. There are also many different scholarships available to youth who show animals in all species of farm animals. Including rabbits.
Showing rabbits is the least expensive farm species to care for and show. Entry fees in Texas usually are $3.50 per entry. We average taking 10-15 rabbits to a show. 2005 ARBA National Convention entries were $12.00 each.
Ok, to the nitty gritty of getting to the first show.
First, find a breed you love. There are 47 recognized ARBA breeds to choose from. The best way is to attend a rabbit show. They can be found in your state and surrounding states on our National Organizations website. American Rabbit Breeders Assoc.
http://www.arba.net
Once you have picked that special breed find a reputable breeder to supply you with a trio (one buck and two does). How do you find a reputable breeder. Step outside the breed you have chosen. At a show ask someone who doesn't breed the rabbit you like and ask who is the best person to purchase your rabbits from. If your in Texas, I can point you in the right direction for almost every breed. If you choose American Sable or Mini Rex, I can point you to a great breeder anywhere in the nation. I also can get you that information for Califorians and Satins from those I trust in Texas.
Now you've made contact with that breeder. Ask questions until you think you have imposed. A good breeder loves to share information about his/her breed. Price of your new trio is directly reflected by the breed you have chose. I can give you some examples on breeds we raise or have raised. These are top quality trios.
Mini Rex: $250-$600
Californians: $200-$400
New Zealand: $200-$400
Holland Lop: $300-$700
American Sable: $150-$200
If you want to start showing right away, make sure purchase at least one that is the age that can be shown.
Next is equipment for a show.
Carriers: Designed to carry from two to four rabbits per carrier depending on the breed. If you have Netherland Dwarfs I've seen carriers for six.
Grooming Table: Holds a limited amount of supplies for grooming.
Show box: For those big shows that holds feed, feed crocks, and water bottles for a show where your spending more then one day showing.
Chairs: Folding chairs are a must if you want to sit
Grooming Supplies: this depends on the breed so ask the breeder you get your rabbits from what you need.
Cart: rabbit carriers get heavy so you will need something to wheel them around on. Investigate what is best for you.
Rabbit Mobile: You will see mostly vans and SUV's in Texas due to our heat. I've seen pickups with tops up north. Remember it is very important in the southern states you do not travel to a show in the winter with the heater on. You learn how to drive cold. You can ruin a perfect show coat in a matter of a two hour drive to a show with the heater on.
Angora's: wow do they have equipment. A must have for them is a blower. Ask your breeder
Feeding the show rabbit, see my post on Feeding the Rabbit.
How do I enter the show:
I can tell you how it is done in Texas, but not other parts of the country. I have a dear friend who grew up showing in New York and surrounding states. How the show's entries are handled are very different then in Texas. There are shows that have pre-entry only and those that have only late entry. And some are a combination of both. All pre-entry shows we have entered accept subsitutions for that class only. Each breed has some specifics particular to the breed when they are shown. Basically there are two types of rabbits, the 6-class and the 4-class rabbit. Generally but not always it is the big rabbits who are 6-class rabbits and the smaller are 4-class rabbits. An example is the American Sable, it falls under the 4-class category but is only a pound smaller then the 6-class rabbit minimum. Please have the breeder you selected to help you in understanding this better for your breed. Also have the breeder or a show secretary explain how to fill out your entries. If you live in Texas I will be more then happy to help you. It's not unusual to find me traveling up to 100 miles to help a youth enter the Houston Livestock Show or ARBA Convention for the first time, as it is a daunting task. Don't let this discourage you as it really is quite easy. I just make sure kids get it right so they aren't disappointed.
Now your at the show. Again, depending on the show and the part of the country you live in, it is handled a differently on how the rabbits are put on the table and taken off the table. Best is to ask the breeder you have purchased your rabbits from. I'm at most shows in Texas so I can help anyone in that area.
Awards. Again depending on the breed depends on how you get to Best of Breed (BOB) and Best Opposite Sex of Breed (BOSB). These are the top awards at a show for any breed. It starts with the sex and age class. Bucks show against bucks of the same age. Then the breed may or may not have varieties. The awards at that level are Best of Variety (BOV) and Best Opposite of Variety (BOSV). At this level the class winners within the variety are judged together. This is the level where Bucks and Does show against each other for the remainder of the show. Once Variety is choosen there may or may not be a Group competition. The awards are chosen based on the BOV and BOSV's in that particular Group. The awards are a Best and Best Opposite in Group. Now we are at the breed level. All of the Class winners, Varieties or Groups are up for judging for Breed winners.
Here is how an example breaks done on winners.
Californians - Class winners go up for breed awards
Mini Rex - Variety winners go up for breed awards
Netherland Dwarfs - Group winners go up for breed awards
I know it sounds confusing but you will understand your breed first before the others.
Once all of the BOB and BOSB are chosen, it becomes the option of the show committee to decide how the coveted Best In Show is chosen. There are two ways.
1) All BOB winners of the 6-class rabbits are judged for Best Six Class Rabbit. All BOB winners of the 4-class rabbits are then judged for Best Four Class Rabbit. Then Best in Show (BIS) is chosen between the two winners of those rabbits.
2) All BOB winners are placed on the table and the Best in Show (BIS) is chosen form those winners.
There are pros and cons to both, but I won't go into them here.
Some shows offer a Best of Best Opposites. Judged the same as in the #2 of choosing BIS. And some shows if they choose option #2 will award up to a 3rd Runner Up in Show.
Champions. How does my rabbit become a Champion. Here's where terminology is confusing to the first time show person. Champions need "three legs" to be named a Champion. So what is a "leg"? It is a piece of paper provided by the show secretary to be used towards the championship certificate. Here's the rules in a nutshell.
The rabbit must have three legs with one leg as a intermediate or senior rabbit, under at least two different judges. Intermediate classes are not available to the Four Class Group. Therefore they need one senior leg.
The golden rule for aquiring a leg is 5 rabbits shown with 3 exhibitors. Keep this in mind a leg can be awarded at any level of competition.
Class
Variety
Group
Breed
4 Class
6 Class
Show
Say you are in a class with three rabbits. The 1st place will not get a leg....goes to the golden rule. After this it gets a little more complicated, but still you have to obey the Golden Rule. If you win BOV you must have 5 rabbits in the variety with three different exhibitors showing. If the BOV is a doe all rabbits shown in the variety count towards the doe receiving a leg. BOSV is a buck. If there aren't at least 5 bucks shown by 3 exhibitors in the variety then the buck will not receive a leg. This continues all the way up to deciding Best In Show. You can only receive one leg per show.
Ok, now I have my three legs and I want my Grand Champion Certificate. You must first get the rabbit registered. This is done by an ARBA Licensed Registar. Each show is required to have a registar at the show or you can take your rabbits to a registar or have one come to your barn. They will examine the rabbit and let you know if the rabbit can be registered. Once you have a registation on the rabbit you follow the directions on the back of any of the legs, and send off for your Grand Champion Certificate. Only one certificate will be issued per rabbit. If you hear someone talking at a rabbit show that a rabbit has say 10 legs. You know that rabbit was a very constistent winner. I've heard of several different breeds having rabbits with over 30 legs. Now that is a dream rabbit. The final requirement to getting a rabbit either registered or the certificate is you must be a member of ARBA.
The last items you need to show your rabbit and this is of utmost importance! Purchase the ARBA Standard of Perfection. We have a brand new one for this year. So your Standard will be good through 2010. It is your bible to what your breed is judged against. They have added to this Standard some excellent items on showing how to pose a rabbit, etc. Posing is another great question to ask a breeder. Finally, the ARBA Bylaws and Regulations are written in the ARBA Yearbook. The Yearbook also includes all of the National Specialty Clubs for each breed, along with contact info. This is a biannual publication. The Yearbook is sent to you as a member and doesn't cost anything.
Some unwritten rabbit show rules. These are more rules of being a courteous rabbit show person. All breeders think a newbie to the show room must also be a breeder. Thus, this is why I advised you should purchase a trio. I've seen rabbitries be competitive on the national level with as few as 20 holes (cages) in their rabbitries. Another is if you purchase a rabbit from a fellow showman/woman there is an understanding that at some point that rabbit will enter your breeding program. If I buy a rabbit from Person B who purchased it a couple of years before from Person A, I don't say anything to Person A, unless I know Person B has told them. I've seen too many hurt feelings in the showroom with individuals who purchase a rabbit to show then turn around and sell it. I've even seen two or three people actually shunned for doing this to the point of the individuals eventually quiting. In these cases it took four to five years before they quit, but they also did some other things to upset people. One show rule that is a written rule is you are not allowed to identify your rabbit on the show table to the judge. Your entire entry can be disqualified. I've never seen an entry disqualified, but what I have seen in Texas is judges ganging up on the individual doing this when it doesn't quite after a time. They quit placing that individuals rabbits. These are usually the same person who does the above with rabbits on the unwritten rule. When your rabbit is on the table stand back at least two feet from the table while they are being judged. I've been known to go up to 50 feet away if we have a rabbit up for the Breed award so I don't give away by even the appearance of my facial expression. Ok, one of the best things I love about showing is that if a rabbit is DQ'd (disqualified) on the table. They are the first to go off the table. It is not discourteous to ask the judge to show you the DQ. I've learned so many things from judges this way. One of the most interesting DQ's was working with Judge Bobby Walker behind the table taking comments for him. He showed me a rabbit he had DQ'd based on a bad spinal column that was a genetic fault. Everyone had to feel the spinal column of that rabbit. This particular rabbit already had 4 junior legs with two BOB and one Runner Up in Show.
I've met very few breeders who aren't willing to show you the ropes. Some aren't as reliable as others, but they share information. I get so tickled when someone asks me one particular question. How do you get such beautiful color on your Chocolate Mini Rex. They look at me as if I have lost my mind when I tell them. The answer: If your breeding self colored rabbits (not going into anymore color genetics then that) you have to breed chocolates, blues, or lilacs to a black every other generation or you will start to loose color. Our black mini rex are all worked into the herd so their offspring will produce chocolates if the orginal black is a homozygous black.
Now after getting to this point, there are some other subtile items that need to be done at home to get that perfect show rabbit which doesn't have to do with feeding. I'll go there on my next post.
Hope I've peaked you interest in showing.
Kim
Heaven is a day at the ranch with my Santa Gertrudis! |
| santa_gertrudis_gal |
Posted - Aug 08 2006 : 08:56:36 AM
Kelly,
Your welcome! I hope you will contact Freda! I smile each time I think of how my daughter talked with me about her feelings towards her. I thought apples don't fall far from the tree. I had a similar contact with Tom McNair as a 14 year old. He gave me a compliment on my mare during a Competitive Trail Ride when he did the vet check on her. I could barely say thank you. The one Arabian trainer I looked up to more then any other. Tom later became my trainer when I was in my mid 20's and I told him about that vet check. He laughed with me, and he was honored. This year I was sadden at his death. Lynn did the same thing with Freda, she was on a pedestal in her eyes. I'm thrilled she has someone she wants to be like. Freda definitely has made a difference in my daughter's life and I will forever be greatful.
Please remember what I write is only my opinions. It is what has worked for me over the years. There are many other opinions out there, please ask questions of others as they will allow you to formulate your own opinions on the subject of rabbits.
You have inspired me to yet again write!
Kim
Heaven is a day at the ranch with my Santa Gertrudis! |
| Kelly43 |
Posted - Aug 08 2006 : 04:58:48 AM
Kim, Thanks for the wonderful e-mail. Can't wait to share it with my daughter (she just returned from a week in Colo. Springs shooting an archery tournament). You must have been reading my mind because I was going to shoot you off a reply asking you about your opinion on feeding as that seems to be always a topic of discussion in our 4-H club. You are soooooooo kind to take your time to share all this info (with me and others). I have been talking to other people about this great friend I have found who is so knowlegable. I visited your web site (love the jack rabbits lol) and plan to take time to visit the other sites you have recomended. I will send a reply after I have digested all your great info. For now am going to try to attend the shows in our area, get involved in the breed association and keep bugging you with questions (hope that's ok). Keep filling us all with your knowlege.
Kelly |
| santa_gertrudis_gal |
Posted - Aug 07 2006 : 9:16:13 PM
Erin,
Stay tuned, I'm not done yet!
As I get inspired I write.
Kim
Heaven is a day at the ranch with my Santa Gertrudis! |
| Bluewrenn |
Posted - Aug 07 2006 : 5:09:33 PM
Wow! What a great thread on rabbit raising. Thank you so much! I have thoroughly enjoyed reading it,
My Homesteading Journal
http://toomyvara.livejournal.com
My craft journal
http://bluewrenn.livejournal.com |
| santa_gertrudis_gal |
Posted - Aug 07 2006 : 2:11:10 PM
Feeding the Rabbit and Rabbit Toys
A rabbit has the same type of digestion system as a horse. A mono-gastric system with a functioning caecum.
Rabbit Nutrition information just doesn't come close to what is out there for Cattle, Goats, Sheep, Pigs, or Horses. In otherwards, the research has not been as extensive.
With the above in mind I reccomend a commerical pelleted ration. They come in various protein percentages from 14% to 18% with the most common being in 15%, 16% and 18%. All are alfalfa based. The ones I know of and are good commerical pellets are Heinhold, Petrus, Purina, Nutrena, Bluebonnet, Kings, and I'm sure there are others. For those that live in the mid-west you are fortunate to have excellent quality alfalfa to have in your feeds. Mid-westerner breeders seem to prefer the Heinhold or Purina. For those of you that live in Texas, don't use Purina. They just don't have the quality. Most Texas breeders use Petrus, and I've even had problems with their feed. Yet far less then with other feeds. Somehow I wish I could get the quality the mid-west has.
Choosing the correct percentage protein for a rabbit. There really isn't a standard way to know which you should purchase. This is why I always reccomend checking witht the breeder who breed the rabbit and why one should never purchase a pet store bunny. For nine years we fed a 16% protein. We have moved to an 18% because we can't get the results we need to show our rabbits any more with a 16%. If someone were to purchase a pet bunny kept indoors I would recommend a 15% protein. A 16% for outdoor bunnies. If you were going to show my bloodlines I would reccomend a Petrus 18% if you live in Texas. See what I mean. Nutritional research into feeding rabbits is poor. Protein content can also be based on the size of the rabbit. For small breeds, 6 lbs and under they do well on a 16% for show or pet. Large breeds 8 lbs and over 16 or 18% for show and 16% for pet bunnies. Except for the lovely Angora rabbits. Breeders tell me they need an 18% protein to get their lovely wool to grow properly and provide enough protein to keep the condition on them.
Pet store rabbit food....to me this is a big DO NOT FEED. Most of it is stale....yucky stuff. Find a feed store that splits commerical 50 lb bags into smaller bags and purchase it that way if you have a pet bunny.
Hay - Two types of hay are available
1) Alfalfa - This is a big NO! BUT YOU SAY, the feed is made with it. Correct, but the protein content is the issue. Alfalfa can be as high as 26% protein. Remember they have a digestive system like a horse. Horses can't tolerate a lot of high percentage protein alfalfa and a rabbit is no different.
2) Grass Hays - This is the route to go. Use the most common good quality grass hay in your area. You will have wonderful results with your choice and the rabbits will appreciate it. Rabbits need at least two to three handfuls a week to help keep the digestive track in good working order. The older the rabbit or more cold weather you have the more hay the rabbit will need.
Papaya Tablets - I consider these a must have. Rabbits are nice because they keep themselves clean by grooming. The down side to having them help you out in that area a digestive problem which occurs because of the hair swallowed. This problem is called Wool Block, blocking the digestive tract with a balled mass of fur or wool. Papaya has an enzyme that helps break down fur. We feed two tablets a week. You find when you open the container they go wild, they can smell them as soon as the container is open. We purchase ours at:
http://www.oxbowhay.com
Treats for Rabbits
Again, I don't like the Pet Store kind, processed, stale and yucky. The other big NO is lettuce. The amount of water in lettuce can cause the runs. Grass in the yard can do the same thing. Rabbits love a host of things you keep in the kitchen. They include:
Banana slices, leaving the skin on
Raisins (no grapes - water content) no more then 2-3 a day
cilantro
basil
thyme
oregano
parsley - both flat leaf and curly
sweet potatoes - 1 inch cube
apples - including dried
carrots
Oatmeal - only the slow cooking form (Quick Oatmeal will cause digestive block and soak up all available water in stomach and remaining digestive tract.
If your on a farm or live where you have rabbits in your garden, watch what they like to munch on. Your domestic rabbit will like it, too.
Salt licks - I've never had one for any of our rabbits. Or a mineral one either. Feeding a good quality commerical feed has enough salt to meet the needs of the rabbit. Occasionally I do have to give a pinch of our loose mineral we keep around for the cattle. It is usually the does that need it. Especially one that has just weaned a litter within about two months. As we go into our breeding season, starts in fall and goes through spring, I give the does a pinch a week for about three weeks. Signs are a stripping of fur, usually on the stomach area. You won't find the fur underneath their cage either cause they have eaten it.
Water - the number one nutrient required by all animals on this earth. Yes, a nutritionist will tell you it is the number one required nutrient. It was even a test question in both of my nutrition classes in college.
Show Rabbit Nutrition
Over the ten years of having rabbits to breed and show, they have taught me alot about what their needs are to get the best condition and fur in order to show them.
For 8 1/2 of those years I fed Bluebonnet Feed 16%. It was a tough show season this past year for us, as our conditioning went to pot. We had to switch feeds as Bluebonnet tweaked their feed and it was severe enough to cause all of our rabbits to loose condition. Thus, the switch to Petrus. We switched to Petrus' 16.5% protein. Last December I lost 4 rabbits to the feed. We then went to 18%. Our genetics have been for selecting rabbits based on the Bluebonnet Feed. Rabbits that should have done well on the Petrus weren't. This year with those we did select for their conformation and ability to keep condition and fur on the Petrus have had babies that are really doing well this year. This will only continue with each sucessive generation. I tell this story so if you decide to get into the Show area of rabbits, you make sure you ask the breeder what they feed. Then do so.
We follow what I wrote above talking about feeding rabbits to the letter. Yet there are a few tricks I've learned along the way that will help the novice show person. Alot of people don't like to share their tips. I do....as I want everyone to enjoy the hobby I so love. My six hours of animal nutrition so helped me in this area.
We use a conditoning mix on our rabbits starting at about two months of age. This is fed one tablespoon for our Mini Rex (small breed to 4 1/4 lbs.) and two tablespoons to our American Sables and Californians. This is fed once a day. Some rabbits love this conditioning mix so much, they go off their regular feed, so I feed it in the morning and the pellets in the evening. Rabbits who won't eat because they love the conditioning mix so much, just don't get it until they eat both. This mix is only fed to the rabbits that are in the show string and not our breeding rabbits.
Our receipe for the mix is as follows:
Steamed-Rolled Oats (1 cup)
Steamed-Rolled Barley (1 cup)
Whole Oat Groats (1/2 cup)
Flax Seed (1/3 cup)
Stablized Rice Bran (1/3 cup)
Stockbuilder Pellets (3/4 pellets)
Dried Brewer's Yeast (2 Tblspoons)
Wheat Germ Oil to Bind
Feed 1 TBlspoon to smaller breeds, 2 Tblspoon to larger breeds a day.
This is how we aquire all of these ingredients:
Steam Rolled Oats - subsitute Old Fashioned Oatmeal (Quick Oatmeal will bloat rabbits)
Steam Rolled Barley - subsitute Quaker Pearled Barley, we prefer using the organic in organic section of Kroger - more expensive. Or purchase Hulled Barley from:
http://www.purcellmountainfarms.com
Oat Groats - our feed store no longer will order for us so we purchase via online (through paypal) or telephone from
http://www.purcellmountainfarms.com
Flax Seed - can find in Organic Section of Kroger Stores
Stablized Rice Bran - Feed Stores (both pelleted and granular, usually have to order. will last about 3-4 months in our humidity, about $40.00 a bag, store in some sort of container)
Stockbuilder Pellets - Calf Manna Pellets, again store in container
Dried Brewer's Yeast - Nutrition Store, which we don't have in our area. GNC does not carry last time I checked, I order online from:
http://www.performancenutritionals.com (Solgar Brewer's Yeast)
Wheat Germ Oil - we purchase blended wheat germ oil from the feed store in quart size so it stays fresh.
Keep in mind this is what I call a very "hot" mix. As wonderful a condition and fur additive it can blow the condition and fur very quickly. Therefore we feed one week on the mix and five days to one week off the mix. The rabbits treat it like candy.
High quality hay for traveling. Traveling for rabbits can be very stressful. So I like to feed a hay they can not resist to keep them busy and to help with keeping the loin full. I have Western Timothy hay shipped in for shows. If we are at a show facility that does not allow hay, I order Timothy hay cubes for the bunnies. Both can be purchased at Oxbow Hay (address is above).
Oatmeal is a must at a show. Remember to only use the slow cooking kind. This helps fill out the loin area of a rabbit if they aren't drinking enough. We don't forget to take oatmeal for the larger shows where a rabbit may be in a coup for two to four days. We feed enough to keep the loins full, 1 Tblspoon to a small handful depending on the individual rabbit.
Water is so essential to the show bunny. We have travel bottles that will attach to the inside or outside of the carriers and are what called "top-filled". The bottles also have a nozzle on them that doesn't leak while they are in the car. It is the same nozzle they have with our automated watering system. Before we got that system we never had problems with them using the bottles, as rabbits are naturally curious animals. We are blessed that our rabbits have well water to drink that doesn't taste so great. Wonderful Texas Upper Gulf Coast nasty well water. Our rabbits will glady drink water anywhere they have to stay for a few hours to a few days. Yet keep in mind you may have to pack water with you if you find your rabbits don't like the water when away from home. I know that when I move the rabbits to the ranch, I'll be one of those packing water.
Rabbit Toys
I put this in with rabbit nutrition as rabbits chew on every thing. Some rabbits, not because they are mean, like to see if they can nibble on you. Again, I don't like the processed Pet Store toys. Within the last three years I have been seeing wood shapes for rabbits that haven't been processed so I'm sure they would be fine.
I give my rabbits three kinds of toys. Not so much the third, unless it is a meat pen or single fryer at our county fair or any show that has a large public population moving through the show. Keeps their mind off the non-rabbit people moving around them.
1) Wood blocks
We use white pine shelving to build nest boxes, so we always have scrape laying around. I cut those into 2"-3" pieces. The rabbits can toss them around, and chew them to pieces without hurting themselves. Any wood that isn't processed is good for this, except if it is poisonous to humans. If it is poisonous to us it is to rabbits.
2) Empty hard plastic containers.
This includes but is not limited to:
McCormick Spices that come in the small plastic
Oxbow papaya tablet containers.
Any other small hard plastic container where the lid is flush with the side.
3) Empty toliet paper rolls.
Fill these tightly with hay and the rabbit will have hours of fun getting the hay out and chewing on the card board.
I used to recommend aluminum cans, and rabbits love to hear them clanging. I always took them out of the cage when I would see a perferation in the can. I don't recommend them now. One of our friends rabbits came down with aluminum poisoning at of all places our National Convention in 2003. He lived but it he was an awlful sight. On the other hand it was good a good thing it was a Convention. This Texas friend is a well respected breeder on the National level and I don't see as many cans in the coups at Convention anymore. Don't use them.
Well that's it for today....I've got house work to do!
Kim
Heaven is a day at the ranch with my Santa Gertrudis! |
| santa_gertrudis_gal |
Posted - Jul 02 2006 : 12:16:16 PM
Beyond the Easter Bunny
We as a nation are so conditioned to the rabbit as a pet, a furry cuddly thing, etc. We have Peter Cotton Tail, the Easter Bunny, Bugs Bunny and the list could go on. What is the average American missing out on. Rabbit meat! Due to our love affair with the rabbit, we are missing one of the healthest meats available to us.
When taking a look at rabbit meat in comparrison to the other meats we eat on a regular basis we can compare them and show where the rabbit stands as far as protein and fat content.
Fat Content in order from least to greatest:
Fish
Turkey
Rabbit
Chicken
Beef
Pork
Protein Content per pound in order from least to greatest:
Chicken/Turkey
Pork
Beef
Rabbit
Fish
As you can see Rabbit is actually a highly healthy meat for the American consumer. Yet even our AMA (American Medical Assoc.) does not push Rabbit to the American Consumer. Our Cardiologists aren't even knowledgable on the benefits of Rabbit to heart patients. Rabbit meat offers a great alternative for another white meat.
The largest processor of rabbit meat in the country is Pel-Freeze and the Nutrition Facts on their label are as follows.
Serving Size is 4 oz.
Calories 120, Calories from Fat 50
Total Fat 6g (9% daily value)
Saturated Fat 2.5g (11% daily value)
Cholesterol 55mg (18% daily value)
Sodium 40mg (2% daily value)
Total Carbohydrate 0g (o% daily value)
Dietary Fiber 0g
Sugar 0g
Protein 16g
Vitamin A 0%
Vitamin C 0%
Calcium 0%
Iron 2%
So maybe at this point I've interested you in possibly cooking rabbit for dinner tonight. How do you cook rabbit. The texture of rabbit meat is very much like chicken. The flavor is mild so any receipe for chicken can be used for rabbit.
Pel-Freeze offers this receipe:
Rabbit with Light Mustard Sauce
2-3 lbs rabbit cut in pieces (as a chicken might be cut)
Flour seasoned with salt and pepper
4 Tblsp. Butter
1/4 cup vegetable oil
Mustard Sauce:
1/2 cup light sour cream
1/2 cup low-fat yogurt
1/3 cup dry white wine
3 Tblsp. Dijon Mustard
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. black pepper
1 tsp. chopped fresh basil
Dredge rabbit with seasoned flour, shaking off excess. Saute in butter and oil until lightly brown and tender, about 20 minutes on each side. To make sauce, combine all ingredients. Simmer and stir until sauce is warm. Do not boil. Serve over rabbit. Makes about
1 1/4 cups. Serves 4-6.
I've never made this receipe but it sounds yummy and I know how I would adjust the flavor to suit me. Baking the rabbit would also be another way to fix this dish. I also love bar-b-que rabbit, Texas style, done in a pit just as a chicken would be done.
If your still clueless on how to fix rabbit then there is a cookbook on the market provided by the American Rabbit Breeders Assoc. Title: 1001 Ways to Cook Rabbit. The link is below:
http://www.arba.net/shop/index.htm
Best wishes on cooking your next meal with rabbit meat.
Kim
Heaven is a day at the ranch with my Santa Gertrudis! |
| santa_gertrudis_gal |
Posted - Jun 10 2006 : 08:05:26 AM
Proper HOUSING of a Rabbit
I'm only going to touch on housing when it comes to having a rabbitry and not having a house bunny.
There is a lot of discussion in the rabbit world on the best way to house rabbits. Decisions in this area should be based first on the climate where you live. For someone like DD and myself with having space for 70 rabbits the rabbitry needs to be functional as well as using our humid Texas Upper Gulf Coast climate to it's fullest advantage.
The first consideration is heat and not cold, no matter what part of the country you live in. Remember the rabbit has a wonderful coat of fur year round that keeps him toasty warm. Rabbits like pigs don't sweat. Their ears serve as the air conditioner. Heat is transfered out of the body through the ears. On white rabbits it is very easy to see the veins and how much more expanded they are in the summer. There is a saying "that rabbit has summer ears". Longer ears will grow on babies raised in the heat of the summer then those babies in the winter.
Here is the list of things to keep in mind when choosing a location for your rabbitry.
1) Prevailing direction of the wind in summer and the location of the property that receives the most wind.
2) Shading of the location - very important for summer.
3) Predators in your area - owls, hawks, dogs, etc.
4) Layout of barn by compass direction to fully utilize the wind.
Construction of the barn:
Depends on your preferences as to what type of materials. Keep in mind the further south you live the more open the barn needs to be. Up north your winter temperatures may require heating ability and ability to supply water that will take longer to freeze. Make sure you include work area, feed storage area, and of course room for possible expansion. Rabbits really become a 'Rabbit Habit' as we term it. Know the size cages and number you will need to house your rabbits so you can take that into the size of the barn.
Wind and Shade:
Wind is your friend in the summer. It can cut down on the number of fans you may need to use as well has help with the rate of air being turned over in the barn. We probably have a turn over rate of 4 to 6 times in a minute in our barn in the summer because of the design. Make sure the majority of the shade is to the west to keep the temps down in the afternoon. On an average summer day our barn is 5-7 degrees cooler inside because of these considerations. Shade is very important as white rabbits are genetically albinos, and can not have direct sunlight.
Predators:
Dogs are going to be your biggest threat. Because our barn must be open we have a four foot field fence around the barn to keep out dogs. Even our dogs know the rabbitry is not a space they are allowed to enter.
Cage Systems
There are all kinds of systems to put into a barn. Stackable units, Flush Clean units, Suspended units. We currently have Suspended units. When we build the barn at the ranch we will utilize Flush Clean Units with climate controled barn. Our show barn, climate controled, has stackable units. Make your choice of the system you want to use based on amount of time in the day you have to clean, how manure needs to be disposed of, will you also raise worms under your cages (suspended units), and space. To view the various cage systems visit the following links:
http://www.bassequipment.com
http://www.kwcages.com
Should you choose to have stackable units, make sure you purchase the plastic Duratray for your trays. We have had ours seven years, metal pans lasted three.
Watering System:
No one system watering system is better then another. I prefer water crocks or water bottles, but that is an hour and half labor on the size of our barn every day. I prefer this because water tells me faster if I have a sick rabbit. We have had to move to an automated system due to my time demands with DD in college. Automated system was a godsend when we evacuated for Rita last year. Again, the above links can show you what is available.
Feeding System:
This is a preference of choice and again time availablity to care for the rabbits. We prefer heavy ceramic crocks. They are heavy, can't easily be turned over, but some rabbits still think they are perfect play toys. I prefer the crocks that are narrower at the top and wide at the bottom. This style prevents rabbits from digging their food out of the bowl. I also really like the Smart Crocks as the round edging keeps them from chewing. If I have a digger that still manges to get his food out of the ceramic ones these can be attached high up on the cage so the rabbit must eat on his hind legs. They are available at:
http://www.bunnyrabbit.com go to the Crocks and Cups link
There are also feeders that attach to cages so the rabbit may be fed outside the cage. The best ones are the heavy plastic, easy to clean and don't rust. I choose to feed inside the cage. It forces interaction with the rabbit. One to baby them and two I'm able to detect quickly if they aren't feeling well. I also am able to give them a pet if for nothing else to see what their individual body condition is on a day to day basis. Believe it or not we know the individual name and tatoo number of very rabbit in the barn, all 70. Partly because of the interaction on a daily basis at feeding time.
Our barn:
One of the primary reasons we purchased our house is because of what it offered in the way of building a rabbit barn. It is one acre with a 30x42 shop on the back of the property. We added wings on the east and west side. The west was originally for the show cattle and pigs. The east became the rabbit barn. It is 12 feet wide and 42 feet long. It is totally open, except for the fencing (4' field fence). Just above the field fence are the inexpensive blue plastic tarps (last about a year and half). The south side is totally open and is twelve feet wide. The north side only has one tarp on it and has a four foot open area next to the east wall of the shop. This allows movement of air out of the barn. The roof runs from fourteen feet to 10 feet in height as it slopes off the shop. Cages are suspended from the rafters and secured by t-posts or the outside fence to keep them from moving. The floor is dirt, cleaned four times a year or when I need some mulch. It does not smell. Cages are taken down two times a year for any repairs and cleaned. They are cleaned the rest of the year on an as needed basis. There are three isles of cages two feet wide extending from six feet in the front to the back fence. A radio is played 24 hours a day. The rabbits prefer country music....if our son turns it to rock, they really don't like it. Three box fans are suspended from the ceiling so the air flow goes north. On the south end there is a big squirrel fan that moves air from south to north. This is to help the prevailing wind during our summer. There is always a breeze in barn during the summer. Due to this design the barn acts as a wind tunnel, and the air moves faster thus being cooler. The summer of 2000 we had 10 straight days of over 100 degree temps. The three hottest days showed a temperature of of 105 in the shade. Our barn on those days stayed at 98. Every hour during the afternoon we were out moisting the rabbits ears, and placed a mister on the roof of the barn. We didn't loose a single rabbit. We had rabbit show friends loose as many as a third of their herds. We were the only ones in the show room to have not lost a single rabbit and we spent weeks explaining why. The show barn is in the shop, it is a 8x12 Rubbermaid Storage building with an AC unit. The vents in the top allow for air transfer. The AC unit is the smallest unit available and keeps the barn with no additional insulation at 65 degrees, we have tried to make it 72 with no luck. We have four stackable units that can be configured to house up to 18 rabbits with expansion to 21. We have it configured to house 15 rabbits.
Our Future Barn at the Ranch:
Again, we will build long and narrow, closed in the summer for climate control. Should you choose a climate control barn you must allow for air exchange at the rate of 2-3 times per minute to reduce ammonia in the air. It's amazing the build up in just one day. Again, to be as "green" as possible we are going to test an underground air conditioning system using mother earth to provide the cooling and supplement when needed with water coolers. If you live in a high humidity area, water coolers will not work with rabbits. We will also put in a flush clean system to keep the ammonia down. We will build to house 100-200 rabbits so I can have a meat production capablility.
What I consider to be the perfect rabbit barn design:
http://http://users.tamuk.edu/kfsdl00/rabb.html
Dr. Lukefahr is a geneticist and is the formost authority in the US on rabbit color genetics. He does all of his genetic research using rabbits. His passion is rabbit color genetics. He is from the area we call the "valley" in Texas and designed the TAMU-Kingsville rabbit barn.
Cold Weather and Rabbits
Cold is not a problem for rabbits until the temps drop below freezing. Again the wonderful coat keeps them warm. Our rabbits are the happiest at 40-50 degrees. Below freezing they need something to snuggle in. Hay is best. My northern rabbit friends also use heaters to help with keeping the water from freezing. I am thankful to live in the south, as putting a heater in the barn scares me to death. Maybe someone who has a barn up north can give us some education on heating your barn. On occasion it does drop below freezing here. Usually for an hour or two. And then once in a blue moon it snows. For those rare occasions where temps will be freezing for a longer period of time we make provisions for hay with the bunnies and so the pipes don't break. Snow has placing and additional tarp up on the north side. Our only snow and the first one I've seen stick south of I-10 since 1984 in the Houston area was Christmas Morning 2004. It started to snow just before midnight. I was dispatching trucks from home and had to wake the kids to put the tarp up, start a drip on the automated water system, and bed the rabbits down. Snow was not in the forcast either or freezing temps. There was a 20 mile strip inland that received snow from Galveston down to Matagorda County. We ended up with 8 inches of snow and 12 inches on the north sides of the buildings. Needless to say the kids didn't go back to sleep. Thank goodness for teenagers. In all cases of cold, please make sure the rabbits have plenty of clean fresh water. Animals will drink as much water when it drops below freezing as they do on an 85 degree day.
Hope this helps each of you interested in a rabbitry.
Kim
Heaven is a day at the ranch with my Santa Gertrudis! |
| santa_gertrudis_gal |
Posted - Jun 10 2006 : 08:00:52 AM
Jenny,
When I read your post early this week, I went ?German's? Although, the ARBA recognizes 48 breeds, that is a fraction of the breeds of rabbits in the world. I went searching for the German's. Found them immediately with a listing of breeders.
Here's the link to the International Association of German Angora Rabbit Breeders:
http://iagarb.org/
Breeders are closer to you then you think, Jenny
Speaking of non-recognized breeds. Our ARBA District IV director Bob Whitman is the formost authority on the history of the domestic rabbit in this country. He is also the curator for the ARBA Library at the ARBA Headquarters. Bob has a list of accomplishments to numerous to list and I love spending time with him and just listening. He lives in Beaumont, Texas and his beloved rabbitry was watched closely by our Lord as he didn't loose a single rabbit or have any damage to it during Hurricane Rita. I invite you to visit as he introduces the greatest number of rabbits not recognized in the US to this country. He himself doesn't seek the certificate to present these breeds, but is a seedstock breeder to disiminate the breeds to others. My favorite breed he has is the Perlfree, a breed that really does change color (shade of blue) before your eyes. I will never forget the first time I saw one. His website is a wonderful trip into very rare breeds of rabbits. Hope you enjoy his site:
http://www.rarebitsandpieces.com
Kim
Heaven is a day at the ranch with my Santa Gertrudis! |
| JennyWren |
Posted - Jun 03 2006 : 3:34:56 PM
Hi Kim!
Thank you for the information regarding Angora's! I appreciate that. My husband bought me some wire fencing and lumber to build a BIG rabbit enclosure for our backyard and also said that I could take a trip out east to buy some angora's (helps to be sick  ) Anyhow.. If I could find someone closer that would be GREAT. (I live in Wisconsin) We LOVE rabbits and have had them on and off for the last 27 years. I would love to get back into spinning and knitting, I just really loved the German's temperment.
Thank you again for thinking of me!
If you treat an individual as what he is, he will stay that way, but if you
treat him as if he were what he could be, he will become what he could be.
-- Goethe
www.jennywrensurbanhomestead.blogspot.com/ |
| santa_gertrudis_gal |
Posted - Jun 02 2006 : 09:16:23 AM
I thought I'd let this be an educational thread on rabbits. So if you see my posting in blue. It will be on one particular topic about rabbits.
This post will be about TEMPERMENT.
Temperment is influenced by three factors: breed, genetics, and environment. The greatest factor of these is environment.
Breed Temperment
Certain Breeds have a tendancy to be more tempermental. The full arch breeds definitely show that tendancy and I alway urge those getting into rabbits to not choose these breeds as their first choice, but to wait. The way full arch breeds are handled is very different from other breeds. The full arch breeds are also known for high maintenance, exercise is extremely important for these breeds and a table to exercise them takes up quite a bit of room, with one exception, Britannia Petite. Other breeds well know for their temperments are the Dutch, Thriantra, New Zealand Whites and less commonly the Netherland Dwarf. The New Zealand Reds and Blacks are easy going rabbits, thus the distinction for the Whites. This is only a generalization, the larger the breed the more gentle they are to handle. Two are the Flemish Giant and French Lop.
Genetics
Within every breed you will have lines that show a wonderful temperment and others that show ugly temperments. Does as a tendancy tend to be more tempermental then bucks. As a result a first rabbit should always be a buck.
Environment
In domestic rabbits this is the single most important factor in affecting temperment. The greatest factor within environment is how a rabbit is handled. There are correct ways to handle a rabbit and a whole lot of incorrect ways. The biggest fear for a rabbit is falling. With that in mind the two best ways to hold a rabbit while carrying it is either in a football hold or upright against your chest. A football hold is the rabbit resting on your forearm with the head between your elbow and body. Your hand is used to support the underside of the hindquarter. Upright against your chest is forefeet on your chest and again supporting the hindquarter with your hand. Picking up a rabbit is equally important. Loining a rabbit, grabbing by the ears, or skin along the side is painful. Loining a rabbit bruises the kidneys, the other two painful. If you are tanning fur separating the skin from the muscle does two things. Damages the pelt and bruises the muscle when used for meat. I encourage everyone to learn from a breeder how to handle a rabbit correctly. There is a certain way to turn a rabbit over on it's back to inspect the underside. Explaining how doesn't present a good picture. It is best to get with an established breeder on how to do this.
Over crowding in the rabbitry will also affect temperment. Rabbits are territorial by nature but also like to be around other rabbits. Does being more territorial. Provide them with adequate cage space and a cage of their own. It is understood that a 1/2 square foot of cage space is required per pound of rabbit. If you are showing your rabbits, many breeders including us keep a slightly smaller cage for those rabbits who run. These smaller cages keep the rabbit from running their condition off. A really true runner has to be kept in the smaller cage his whole life. Young bucks are more likely to be runners.
Recognizing a territorial rabbit vs. an outright mean rabbit. Remember the cage (or hole as rabbit breeders call them) is that rabbit's space, belongs to him/her. Rabbits do not understand a 'spanking.' This will turn them mean quickly. For that territorial rabbit in the cage (remember it will probably be a doe) you immediately see the response when you open the door. DD leaves it to me to train these does. She says I'm the best she's seen at handling these does. I take the rabbit out of the cage and go sit in a chair with my back to the barn in the middle of the yard. We have a fifteen to twenty minute session with being pet. The rabbit is then placed back in her hole. We do this at feeding time. The rabbit is the last to be fed in the barn, and if the negative response is given to me when the door is open to be fed we head out to the yard. The association of getting fed and good behavior eventually gets the point accross that I respect their space but they have to respect my space. I've never not had this work. An out right mean rabbit will continue the aggression even outside the cage. The best place for that rabbit is in the freezer.
Young children and rabbits. Please, please supervise the child. When they first get their new rabbit, parent should take the rabbit out of the cage, have the child sit to pet the rabbit on their lap. Make sure the child is wearing jeans or a similiar heavy cloth and long sleeves. This prevents scratches and sudden movement by the child. Teach your child to be quiet holding the rabbit. I know a huge amount of parents in the show world who got their hyperactive children rabbits just for that reason. Even one little girl I know has been able to go off her medication because of the rabbits. This young lady has become one of the top Mini Rex Youth Breeders in Texas. She can even concentrate well when working behind the table with the judges taking comments. Once the child understands quiet movements then they themselves can take the rabbit out.
With this I'm off to work, again!
Have a great weekend and enjoy this day that God has given you!
Kim
Heaven is a day at the ranch with my Santa Gertrudis! |
| brightmeadow |
Posted - Jun 02 2006 : 08:17:14 AM
Joyce is really a great person. I was so glad she beat that cancer she had.
But when is the convention in Grand Rapids? Oh, never mind, I went to the ARBA web site - was confused for a minute, then noticed that your post says 2007! The dates probably are similar to this year's, but not confirmed yet?
Anyway, I was glad I went to the ARBA web site because of the cookbook offer. I collect cookbooks and that certainly will be a different one!
You shall eat the fruit of the labor of your hands - You shall be happy and it shall be well with you. -Psalm 128.2
Visit my web site store at http://www.watkinsonline.com/fish or my homepage at http://home.earthlink.net/~brightmeadow |
| santa_gertrudis_gal |
Posted - Jun 02 2006 : 08:14:57 AM
ARBA Convention Show and Links for those interested.
2006 83rd ARBA Convention and Show, Ft. Worth, Texas
http://www.scootyourboots.com
2007 84th ARBA Convention and Show, Grand Rapids, Michigan
http://www.glrcs.com
Kim
Heaven is a day at the ranch with my Santa Gertrudis! |
| santa_gertrudis_gal |
Posted - Jun 02 2006 : 08:04:04 AM
Brenda,
Life is a small world with being internet capable. I know Joyce well as she is also a grand dame of the American Sables. Joyce handles our Open Sweepstakes Points for the American Sable Rabbit Society. I love seeing her each year at Convention. In Ohio, Mary Whipple raises both American Sables and Satin Angoras. In fact she won Best of Breed Satin Angora last year in Indianapolis where Convention was held. What an honor. I'm not sure if she also raises another breed of Angoras.
Another manure that can go straight into the garden, but in very very small quanities is chicken manure. Chicken manure is much better though using in composting as it will be your best catalyst to start a pile composting in comparison to to other manures. It also breaks down quickly when directly sprayed onto a pasture or garden.
Kim
Heaven is a day at the ranch with my Santa Gertrudis! |
| brightmeadow |
Posted - Jun 01 2006 : 10:42:47 AM
Thanks for posting this! You mentioned the show in Grand Rapids - when is the date? I do go to Grand Rapids rather frequently.
I used to have French Angoras - got started from Joyce Gwirtz, another grand dame of Angora rabbits...when I had to move (work related transfer to another state) I had to find homes for all my bunnies - I've been thinking lately of getting a couple more.
Rabbits are great pets, very quiet, no bothering the neighbors - and yet very interesting. Don't take a huge amount of room and not very demanding. The manure is great for the garden, it is the only manure I know of that can be incorporated directly into soil without composting first.
You shall eat the fruit of the labor of your hands - You shall be happy and it shall be well with you. -Psalm 128.2
Visit my web site store at http://www.watkinsonline.com/fish or my homepage at http://home.earthlink.net/~brightmeadow |
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