| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| MeadowLark |
Posted - Jan 11 2005 : 06:19:27 AM
Has any farmgirl forced tulip or narcissis bulbs in the dead of winter? I have a few extra bulbs left over from fall planting and hate to waste them or allow them to dry up. These are just standard late blooming tulips. The dark and dreary days of winter make me have to plant something and watch them grow!
"Out beyond ideas of wrongdoing and rightdoing, there is a field. I'll meet you there." Rumi, 13th century. |
| 15 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| asnedecor |
Posted - Nov 23 2005 : 07:52:56 AM
Katie-ell -
Again, thanks for the information and the tip on the brent and becky bulbs site. I am shopping today, so maybe I will see if there are any amaryllis bulbs on sale out there.
Anne
"Second star to the right, straight on till morning" Peter Pan
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| katie-ell |
Posted - Nov 23 2005 : 05:07:20 AM
Amaryllis like to be crowded in their pots, so I just put the pot and all in the bag. When the soil is real dry, you can take out some of the soil and replace with new, if you want, to replenish the nutrients. I sometimes do, sometimes don't. I love WFF bulbs! I especially love pure white or the one with the picotee edge of red. Hmm, maybe I need to buy another new one myself!
Addendum: I just went to my favorite bulb site, www.brentandbeckysbulbs.com. They have a 25% off sale and still have quite a selection of Hippeastrum (amaryllis) bulbs left. For your consideration. |
| asnedecor |
Posted - Nov 21 2005 : 09:24:31 AM
Katie-ell -
Thanks for the tip. When you stop feeding it to let the foliage die back do you take it complete out of the dirt and put it in the bag or do you put pot and all in the bag? I so want to order a bulb from White Flower Farm, but if I spend the money I want to know there is hope that I can get it to bloom again, even if it is the third year.
Anne
"Second star to the right, straight on till morning" Peter Pan
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| katie-ell |
Posted - Nov 21 2005 : 05:54:52 AM
Hi Anne --
I hope Clare will not mind my stepping in to respond.
In my post right above yours, I wrote about my amaryllis technique. I'm not always successful in getting an amaryllis bulb to bloom again the second year, but sometimes the third year is the charm.
The most important step is keeping the amaryllis foliage healthy and growing from the time you cut down the spent blooming stem until October. The foliage feeds the bulb, and if the bulb is fed enough and becomes larger, it will send up another bloom. Keep in mind that those bulbs have given their all in producing those huge, beautiful blooms! You'll see that the bulb shrinks up dramatically when the bloom is produced.
I try to feed with 1/2 strength of Miracle-Gro or Peters every other week from early spring until September. (I put my bulbs outside in their pots in May.)
If I remember, I start withholding water in October to get the foliage to die back and the bulb to go dormant. (Otherwise I just cut off the foliage.) Into a paper grocery bag they go (top stapled shut to keep out light). After a month or more, another bud may begin pushing up -- then I take it out and put it in good, indirect light and begin watering. If only foliage comes up, I just keep it watered and begin the fertilizing program again.
I have the best luck with reblooming when I begin with the best, largest amaryllis bulbs, which can be $12-14 around here. But the ones I buy on clearance in January from Target (!) sometimes take then next year off.
Hope this helps!
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| asnedecor |
Posted - Nov 20 2005 : 3:54:54 PM
Clare -
Whew, took me a while to find this topic (search engine not quite working yet), you were giving advice here on storing amaryllis bulbs. I have tried everything and always the second year I can never get the darn thing to bloom again. I tried the dark closet thing, the take outside during the summer thing and nothing seems to work. Either here or somewhere else on the forum I read something about a brown bag to store them in. When do you take them out to start for the next year, late fall? Please help, I would like to try one more time and buy an amaryllis this year and hopefully have it bloom next.
Anne
"Second star to the right, straight on till morning" Peter Pan
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| katie-ell |
Posted - Oct 03 2005 : 3:50:10 PM
The best tulips for forcing are the early bloomers; they do not need as long of a cooling period, but still 4 weeks or so. I also force grape hyacinth, which are so beautiful in bloom: grassy foliage and elegant blooms -- I stuff them side by side in a 6" pot just deep enough for the soil to cover them, then chill in the frig. Amaryllis are favorites -- I have two on the patio right now; time to get them to go dormant, which I do by withholding water and light until the top dies. Then into a paper grocery bag and into the closet where they can rest; when a growing tip pushes up, I take it out, into the light, and begin watering again. Fall is a time of hope -- we plant our spring bulbs (indoors or out) in anticipation of a glorious spring! |
| Clare |
Posted - Oct 03 2005 : 2:55:07 PM
Thought I'd revive this topic! Here's a link to a recent article about planting bulbs in containers for early blooming. Now's the time to do this project, girls, to stop that mid-winter gloom!
http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/nwgardens/241785_bulbs24.html
May the sun bring you new energy by day, may the moon softly restore you by night, may the rain wash away your worries, may the breeze blow new strength into your being, may you walk gently through the world and know its beauty all the days of your life. ~~Apache Blessing
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| bramble |
Posted - Mar 07 2005 : 09:44:38 AM
I would say at this point the deed is done and they will be whatever they are meant to be this year! Too much transplanting will disturb the roots and you might also damage the crown area, but give it a try if you've got an adequate root system. Otherwise let them grow and next year the bulbs will just be that much better! What is the frost date in your area? Ours is Mother's Day weekend so nothing is ever safe until then. It's a rare year we don't get zapped with one last cold snap that lasts a few days . Good luck Jenny!
with a happy heart |
| MeadowLark |
Posted - Mar 06 2005 : 4:01:33 PM
oops, Bramble I planted them outside this afternoon It was 70 degrees... I guess I get a little carried away with the promise of spring. Can I mulch them to protect from frosty weather? Or should I just go ahead and dig them back up and bring back indoors? I'll bet my neighbors think I am a crazy old woman planting bulbs one day and digging them back up the next But hey...whatever works! Only my Lab saw me planting them today...he won't tell anyone Thanks again!
"Out beyond ideas of wrongdoing and rightdoing, there is a field. I'll meet you there." Rumi, 13th century. |
| bramble |
Posted - Mar 06 2005 : 1:39:39 PM
Jenny-- Be careful with your forced bulbs outside. If you have tempered them in your very warm greenhouse they are going to need a steady environment that doesn't have any chance of frost from here on out. The actual flower may become damaged or distorted with extreme temp. changes. What may also happen is that they will put all their energy into rooting and you will see little above the soil if you plant outside at this point.Also, air temp and soil temp vary greatly right now so, I would stick with continuing the forcing indoors(maybe in time for Easter) and then planting outside after they have bloomed.
Hope this helps! ( I'm between Zones 5&6 what about you?)
with a happy heart |
| MeadowLark |
Posted - Mar 06 2005 : 07:38:42 AM
Bramble, Just had to tell you that I took your advice on my leftover bulbs...Put them in my cool garage then 2 weeks ago moved them to my very warm greenhouse. Yesterday to my delight they have sprouted healthy tips and are begging to be planted in the ground now! We have been enjoying unseasonably warm temps 65-70 degrees this past week. Little things like this are so reassuring!
"Out beyond ideas of wrongdoing and rightdoing, there is a field. I'll meet you there." Rumi, 13th century. |
| Clare |
Posted - Jan 17 2005 : 3:40:13 PM
Here's a few ideas on forcing bulbs from Ann Lovejoy.. who's quite an authority on all things gardening... maybe I'll try this again using her ideas.
"Forced narcissus usually are planted in gravel or peat moss, neither of which are at all nutritive. Thus, most forced bulbs become starved and won't produce flowers again.
If you want your narcissus to repeat their fragrant performance, don't plant them in gravel. Fill your bulb pots with 3 to 4 inches of good soil, such as Whitney Farms potting soil. Top that with 3 to 4 inches of gravel and tuck your bulbs in gently.
Keep them in a cool, dim place for two or three weeks to promote good root growth. Once the bulb sprouts begin to lengthen, move the pots into more light and warmth. Once buds appear, feed bulbs weekly or so with diluted (half-strength) houseplant food. Generally, you will have flowers within two or three weeks. When the blossoms reach their peak, you should stop fertilizing and reduce watering, allowing the bulbs to dry out between waterings.
When the leaves begin to brown off, stop watering and let the bulbs go dormant. Store them dry over the summer, (still in the original container). Next September or October, repot the dormant bulbs in fresh soil and begin watering lightly. When shoots appear, repeat the awakening process as above.
Amaryllis can be forced in the peat moss that accompanies most packaged bulbs, but they are far longer lasting when grown like houseplants. When you buy them, choose bulbs that are big, fat and firm.
Amaryllis prefer snug pots, so pick a container that allows the bulb about an inch of room on all sides. Use good potting soil and plant the bulb shallowly, leaving it about a quarter exposed.
Water well, then set the bulb in a dim place to make roots. These tropical bulbs do not appreciate cold, so don't put them in the garage to make roots -- keep them indoors. When green, strappy leaves begin to appear, bring the bulbs into more light.
Feed monthly with half-strength fertilizer as above. When the leaves begin to yellow, decrease watering, letting the bulbs dry out before watering again.
Some amaryllis will go completely dormant and these need to be left dry until they produce new shoots (usually in fall). Others will retain a good stand of leaves and these should be treated like any houseplant -- water and feed regularly, and wash those strappy leaves now and then to keep them glossy.
When new leaves appear, flowers will follow shortly. New amaryllis bulbs bloom within a few weeks of producing shoots. Mature bulbs may bloom anytime between Thanksgiving and Valentine's Day." |
| bramble |
Posted - Jan 16 2005 : 4:57:59 PM
First check and see if the bulbs are still viable. They should be firm to the touch and not bone dry or papery. You will know if they feel "empty" , it means the moisture has left the bulb and most likely won't grow well, if at all. If they still feel firm, you should give them the cold treatment and then plant. Temp should be above freezing and not fluctuate. Good luck , Meadowlark I hope you have a windowsill of spring soon!
with a happy heart |
| MeadowLark |
Posted - Jan 11 2005 : 1:25:41 PM
Thanks Bramble! You are always a wealth of information. I am seriously horticulturaly challenged... What if my bulbs have been in the house already? Do I put them in a cold zone for the 2 weeks then bring them back into the warm house? I have kept them in a cooler part of the house but it is still "warm".
"Out beyond ideas of wrongdoing and rightdoing, there is a field. I'll meet you there." Rumi, 13th century. |
| bramble |
Posted - Jan 11 2005 : 07:41:34 AM
Hi Jenny! I do this every year for January and February , it sort of bridges that growing urge we can't quite indulge yet! Most importantly the bulbs need a "cold treatment" if they haven't already been prepared. Some people use the fridge for two weeks but I prefer a cool spot in our laundry room (2-4 wk minimum). Sometimes the moisture in the fridge can induce rot or if the temp is very cold or fluctuates, the bulbs actually freeze. Frozen bulbs that have not developed roots like when they are planted outside are usually DOOMED!
After the cold treatment, bring bulbs into the house, bright indirect light is best and water well the first time and then sparingly. If you over water the leaf growth will overtake the flower production and you will have a bushy limp green pot of leaves! As for potting media ... I use a mix of sand and potting soil with bone meal mixed in but some folks use stones or even bark. My plants usually get transplanted to the garden in Spring so they are pretty sturdy plants
by that time. Let me know if you have any other questions, it's easy and fun and depending on what you plant , they smell great!
with a happy heart |
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