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T O P I C    R E V I E W
asnedecor Posted - Sep 01 2005 : 3:45:08 PM
Not sure if this is the corect forum to post this, but I couldn't find a topic in the general listing that came any closer.
I am fond of resurrecting old furniture - from re-finishing to re-upholstry. I learned from my Mom and Dad that almost anything that was well built to start with has a chance at a second life.
I was wondering if there are other furniture refinishing/rebuilding buffs out there and if you have any tips to pass on.

One tip I have is if you have old hardware that has been painted - whether from windows, doors or old cupboards - one way to get all the paint off is to boil them in a pot of water with Arm & Hammer concentrated detergent. Make sure to use an old pot, about 1 to 2 quarts of water and about a tablespoon of the detergent. Bring to a good boil and boil for a few minutes. Make sure to open a window - it does smell. As it boils you will see the paint come right off. Then cool, dry and buff up. Works wonders.
25   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
Tammy Claxton Posted - Jan 10 2008 : 08:18:05 AM
I posted a new project on my blog...I resurrected an old wrought iron side table with a new top and a twist!! Check it out and let me know what y'all think!! Have a great day ladies!



What doesn't kill you only makes you stronger!

http://countryintheburbs.blogspot.com/
HFox Posted - Dec 22 2007 : 07:19:12 AM
Janice, I'll figure out how to do that.. after I clean it out and organize all the stuff in it. <blushes>
Miss Bee Haven Posted - Dec 13 2007 : 07:54:09 AM
Can you post a photo of your cabinet, Laura? I'd love to see the results of your hard work. I love to rescue old furniture, too.

Farmgirl Sister #50

"If you think you've got it nailed down, then what's all that around it?"
'Br.Dave Gardner'
HFox Posted - Dec 13 2007 : 07:13:22 AM
Almost everything in our home has been "loved back to life", that is dug out of the trash, or found at a tag sale. My favorite piece is a china cabinet in our kitchen that I use as a pantry. I found it in my mom's neighbors trash pile and sweated over it for three weeks.
I don't have any tips that haven't been covered. I've learned a great deal in this thread!
Thanks to all of you for the great info!
theoanne Posted - Nov 21 2007 : 3:12:04 PM
Amie,
Start with something small and as simple as possible. By simple I mean with the least detail, Also read up on steps of how to go about your task.( I love to strip down to the wood)
Don't worry about your DH. The project only has to please you! If he has specific ideas then give him a piece to do his way. Maybe you can learn together! I have stripped and refinished many pieces over the years. I started by getting old inexpensive pieces and redoing them to save money. I found I really enjoy it.

The one tip I have is that after the final coat of varnish/poly. let it dry for a couple days. Take a brown paper bag and use it like sandpaper to sand it down by hand. This gives you a very smooth finish .

Have fun!! TEDDIE
I'm gonna have to try the hardware/paintremoval tip. sounds grat!

TEDDIE

Too blessed to be stressed!
Alee Posted - Sep 27 2007 : 3:46:53 PM
Oh! Nevermind! You don't have an email link listed. Could you send me the email to alee@maryjanesfarm.org ? Thanks!

Alee
The amazing one handed typist! One hand for typing, one hand to hold Nora!
http://home.test-afl.tulix.com/aleeandnora/
Alee Posted - Sep 27 2007 : 3:42:59 PM
Duchess-

I didn't get your email for some reason. It isn't in my spam folder or in my inbox so I will send you and email and perhaps you can resend it to that address?

Alee
The amazing one handed typist! One hand for typing, one hand to hold Nora!
http://home.test-afl.tulix.com/aleeandnora/
abbasgurl Posted - Sep 27 2007 : 1:34:57 PM
I have been trying to track down Briwax locally for some time with no success. My Ace dealer looked at me like I had two heads when I told him "Ace" was listed as a retailer on the Briwax website. Any ideas which other retailers might sell it?

Thanks!
Rhonda

I'm a one girl revolution.
Duchess Posted - Sep 27 2007 : 11:24:05 AM
Hey Alee,

I looked at the directions but they are pretty much Greek to me
I sent you a note and couple of pictures to your msn address.
I hope that is alright. As to glue, what I had used in the past was the Elmer's wood glue, but the chair I glued fell back apart,lol.
I know when I watch the shows they always have some secret blend and I think one time they even mentioned "fish glue"?? As you can
see from the pictures all the pieces need help but thing it will be
a good project and you guys all inspire me.

Thanks again, Barbara
Alee Posted - Sep 27 2007 : 10:38:11 AM
Hi Barbara!

If the furniture isn't apart already, you probably shouldn't pry it apart, but rather just squeeze the glue into the wiggly joint, clamp it as tight as you can until the the glue dries. You'll want to wipe up any glue that squeezes out with a cloth.

You should use Wood Glue. You can get it at the hardware store.

You shouldn't drill a hole for the new glue.

If you got to "Across the Fence" I have a picture tutorial for how to use photobucket and how to post pictures here on the forum.

I hope that helps!

Alee
The amazing one handed typist! One hand for typing, one hand to hold Nora!
http://home.test-afl.tulix.com/aleeandnora/
Duchess Posted - Sep 27 2007 : 10:17:24 AM
Hi Alee,

You are truly a jack of all trades. Ok, now I know this is going to
sound really dumb, but I need from the start information. Like
how do you get the furniture apart, do you need to, what kind of
glue?? I have tried things like Elmers in the past with less then
great results. Do I have to drill a hole to put the new glue? I would love to put pictures but have not had super results with previous tries. I will go take some more and see what happens. If you can think of a good website I could try I would love it. The cold weather is on the way and I will have lots of time over the winter to do these tasks as well as attempting to make soap. Thanks again, Barbara
Alee Posted - Sep 27 2007 : 07:39:42 AM
Real wood expands and contracts with age, so if the joints are glued, then the glue can crack and come loose. If your chairs and tables are wobbly, you will probably need to glue and clamp the joints to help tighten it up again. As far as the veneer goes- I am not sure. You might have to find a matching veneer somewhere and replace the section. Can you post a photo?

Alee
The amazing one handed typist! One hand for typing, one hand to hold Nora!
http://home.test-afl.tulix.com/aleeandnora/
Duchess Posted - Sep 27 2007 : 07:24:46 AM
Great tips, thank you all so much. I love getting my treasures,lol.
At the moment I have a large dining room table that is wobbly and a variety of chairs with assorted ills. Any good tips for helping these guy? I also have veneer issues, is ther anyway to fix chips?
My guys are not good when it comes to moving things and I can not
seem to get it through their heads that you have to be careful. MEN.
anyway, thank you for any help or pointing me to sites that might have help.
Happy hunting for all those treasures
nut4fabric Posted - Sep 27 2007 : 06:57:18 AM
Old dental tools are great for getting into the small crevices and tight spots when removing old finishes. These are not the "explorers" that are sharp but the instruments used when finishing a filling. I have several of these tools in different shapes from when I worked for a dentist and wouldn't trade them for anything.
Hugs, kathy
Alee Posted - Sep 26 2007 : 10:00:28 PM
I make a furniture polish that is great for antique finishes, especially if there is crazing or een no finish left. Basically you take beeswax and melt it down and add linseed oil or even mineral oil to the point where it is a soft paste.

Also as a harder wax you can take half beeswax and half parafin wax. You will need it to be very hot to apply this one though and I keep a hairdryer on had because if you get even a little bit too much it can turn white on you, but a short blast from the hair dryer will warm it up enough to be buffed in.

Alee
The amazing one handed typist! One hand for typing, one hand to hold Nora!
http://home.test-afl.tulix.com/aleeandnora/
paradiseplantation Posted - Aug 14 2007 : 11:46:43 AM
I love refinishing, and as soon as my mil found out, she sends all her discards to us. Some aren't even in good enough shape to redo, but occasionally she'll send something fun. Just recently, she sent me an iron plant stand. I scraped and sanded all the old paint off, then repainted it white. With a cushion, it makes a perfect vanity stool. Most of my furniture has come from flea markets, garage sales and used furniture stores (even some pieces from trash piles -- Hey, I'm not proud!) I have also done upholstry, but although I'll do it again if I need to, I'm going to stick to smaller pieces, like rockers or chairs or foot stools. As far as getting in the tight grooves, I sometimes use a thin piece of metal (like a nail file), wrap it in sand paper and do my best. I also have a soft bristle wire brush, but even with the soft bristles, you have to be very careful not to scar the wood. What I really want to learn to do is to reporcelain. I have a bathtub in desperate need of refinishing, but I've heard the products at Home Depot and Lowe's is really NOT the way to go. Anne, I LOVE the lavendar and green color combination you used! It sounds like it turned out beautiful!
KYgurlsrbest Posted - Aug 14 2007 : 11:46:24 AM
Funny this should come up. I've been looking at this settee that someone kindly gave to us--it's a deco piece--probably 30's era. It's leather on the seat and back, with a lovely wood frame--looks like cherry, because of the color, but they used mahogany, then, too. Anyway, it's been pretty abused. Mostly just "unattended" in the sense that the varnish is dried out, the legs have been knicked by a vacuum, and some of the varnish is chipped off here and there, and the leather is dried out and has some sort of stain. I bought a couple of things for the leather stain--including Ivory soap. I'm hoping that will take it out--but after 60 years or so, I'm pretty skeptical

I contacted an upholster--it would be $1200 alone to reupholster the leather portion (and it's no bigger than a one person settee), so I'm going to try to clean it up myself.

What is this briwax you speak of?

"She was built like a watch, a study in balance ... with a neck and head so refined, like a drawing by DaVinci"...
NY Newsday sportswriter Bill Nack describing filly, Ruffian.
Tammy Claxton Posted - Aug 13 2007 : 8:57:56 PM
If you have a small piece of furniture, then that is a good place to start. Get a piece that isn't in too bad of shape and try a light sanding on any scratches. Use a fine sandpaper. Usually the beautiful grain will show itself again. If you get to that point, then either stain it with a good stain/polyurethane combo like Minwax Brand in the color you choose, or if you like the natural look if the wood, then get a good polyurethane clear coat and put on it. Let it dry really well and then reapply another thin coat of it. Oh, always make sure the space you work in is dust free and well ventilated.....I learned that the hard way..WHEW!!!
Amie C. Posted - Aug 01 2007 : 1:07:39 PM
I haven't refinished anything yet, but I have quite a collection of furniture waiting for me to learn how. Mostly chairs that need to be refinished and then reupholstered. I'm running into a big problem with starting. I don't know anything about finishes and I'm scared to ruin stuff. Also, my husband keeps insisting that I can't strip anything and paint it (which seems like an easy way to get started). He wants me to make the existing finish look good, which seems like no small order. Any suggestions for a good first time project?
Alee Posted - Aug 01 2007 : 12:45:39 PM
I love old furniture. I have a blanket box that was my grandmothers that needs some help. The top has no finish on it, and my grandfather let his dog jump on it too look out the window so it has a bunch of scratches in it. Someday soon it will get re-habed! :)

Alee
The amazing one handed typist! One hand for typing, one hand to hold Nora!
Tammy Claxton Posted - Jul 31 2007 : 11:56:31 PM
I have to admit that I am a furniture buff! My husband says that I should own an antique store..lol I often get things off of freecycle online and craigslist. I usually have a few projects going on at once and that often takes me awhile to get them done. I recently rehabbed a Hoosier cabinet that was given to me by my grandmother in-law. It dates back to 1941! I love how it turned out. It still has the flour bin in it! I also have an antique Queen Anne chair out in my garage that is all stripped and ready for new upholstery. If I can, I will post a pic of the cabinet. I am so proud of it!!
Horseyrider Posted - Sep 20 2005 : 07:35:05 AM
I'm hardly anything like a professional refinisher. But I did have to remove all the many layers of paint from the woodwork in our livingroom. Our house is about 140 years old, and it was a lot of layers, including milk paint.

I used a heat gun for some of it, chemical stripper for the wood between the windowpanes, and a Dremel tool for the corners and difficult spots. There were two doorways, two windows that were nine feet high from floor to ceiling, and two regular (large)windows. When the heat gun or chemical had softened the paint, I used an old antique butter knife that matched the contour of the wood, a dull straight edge razor, and some inexpensive woodworking chisels (be careful!) to get the rest. When done, I sanded and then wiped it down with acetone, and then with one of those tacky finishing cloths before painting. It came out gorgeous; all the crispness of the detail of the original woodwork was there, and I get to appreciate what the people who built this house saw.

I also learned to hate milk paint. You have to be verrrrry careful with a heat gun; you can easily singe the wood trying to remove the paint! It's tough old stuff.

asnedecor Posted - Sep 13 2005 : 06:37:11 AM
Ellen -

Actually I get my Briwax from a antique store in historic Sellwood here in Portland. But I am sure the ACE Hardware store down the street has it too, they seem to carry a bit of everything. I have never found an easy "trick" to getting varnish out of little grooves/crevasses. Just steelwool and some elbo grease. I did use a small "V" shaped scraper to get paint out of the grooves on the stair railing spindles when I stripped that, but I had to be careful not to gouge the woodwork. Maybe someone else has a better way of doing it.

"Second star to the right, straight on till morning" Peter Pan
ByHzGrace Posted - Sep 11 2005 : 3:07:20 PM
Anne,Thanks for doing the surfing. I emailed bob and I'll let you know if I get an answer. I was pondering going down to the monument makers for advice, so maybe I will still stopover. Do you get briwax at your hardware store? I use Ace.

Do you all have any tips on how to sand or get the old varnish out of the little grooves they be like crevasses from different levels of trim? What about I got another table if it has a veneer that is dented?

Jes when you do the mosaics in sides then can you grout all in the same day or will this slide too? will you be able to tell will it look like a patch?
asnedecor Posted - Sep 10 2005 : 10:29:27 AM
I agree with Jes - sanding and priming are very important. Also when doing a natural finish, steel wooling between coats of varnish give you a smoother finish. I am also a big fan of the Briwax, I've used both the clear and dark for various finishes. I love it.

"Second star to the right, straight on till morning" Peter Pan

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